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“藿食者”——上古平民日常饮食蠡测

“Bean Leaf Eaters”:A Survey of the Daily Diet of Ancient Commoners
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摘要 在中国早期历史上,位于“食物链”底端的庶人、平民被称为“藿食者”,与被称为“肉食者”的占据统治地位的贵族阶级形成了明显的对应称呼。所谓“藿食”就是平民日常食用的比较粗劣的野菜粥饭(豆叶稀饭),其中主食是当时比较常见产量较高的粟稷,饮水就是不做加工的井水、泉水、河水。在上古时期,尤其是等级制度森严的周代,一般情况下礼制规定平民不能享有肉食。只有在比较低级的祭祀仪式之后,才有可能分享到胙肉(肉类祭品)而食,故称“打牙祭”。平民也可以通过渔猎活动,向贵族官家缴纳所获野生动物和水产鱼类之余,留下少部分肉食用以解馋。此外年关节庆,也是平民百姓可以享有肉食美酒的欢乐时刻,劳苦一年后可以吃香喝辣,所以他们盼望过年。一些未能做官的读书人(士)、隐者和墨家之徒,由于经济原因和信仰坚守,他们过着“饭蔬饮水”的清贫生活,几乎与平民百姓毫无二致,从他们的饮食状况也可以推测当时平民饮食的大致水平。 In the early history of China,commoners at the bottom of the“food chain”were called“huo shi zhe”(bean leaf eaters藿食者).“Huo shi”is a kind of coarse bean leaf porridge(or herbal porridge),mainly made of millet.By contrast,the so called“meat eaters,”the aristocracy,is the ruling class.The commoners ate“huo shi”and drank water from the well,spring or river without processing.In ancient times,especially in the Zhou Dynasty(1046 BC-256 BC)where the hierarchy was strict,the etiquette system forbade the“bean leaf eaters”from enjoying meat.It was only after a relatively low⁃level sacrificial ceremony that“bean leaf eaters”could share the meat sacrifice,which is called“tooth beating sacrifice”(or“tooth festival”打牙祭).In other cases,having paid tribute of wild animals and aquatic products such as fish to the nobles,commoners could also keep a small amount of meat for themselves.In addition,the Lunar New Year Festival is also a happy time for commoners to enjoy meat and wine after a year’s hard work,so they look forward to the Chinese New Year.Some scholars,hermits and Mohists who failed to serve as officials,because of economic reasons and firm beliefs,lived a poor life on vegetables and spring water,which was almost the same as that of ordinary people.From their diet,we can also infer the general dietary level of ordinary people at that time.
作者 朱彦民 ZHU Yanmin(Research Center for Chinese Social History,Nankai University,Tianjin 300350,China)
出处 《河北师范大学学报(哲学社会科学版)》 2023年第4期20-30,共11页 Journal of Hebei Normal University(Philosophy and Social Sciences)
基金 教育部人文社会科学重点研究基地重大项目“制度与生活:唐五代以前的日常生活研究”(项目编号:20JJD770008)。
关键词 上古 藿食者 平民 饮食 ancient times bean leaf eaters commoners diet
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