摘要
为进一步促进全成形针织产品开发,文章以四针床电脑横机及其配套的SDS-ONE APEX3设计系统为依托,采用实验法和实例分析法,对全成形针织半身裙的成形方法进行研究。选取紧身裙、斜裙及喇叭裙为研究实例,根据其摆型特点,合理设计成形工艺,实现针织半身裙的一体成形。针对紧身裙造型贴体、活动不便特点,下摆采用C形编织工艺实现后开衩设计,以增加腿部活动量;结合斜裙裙身褶皱细碎、丰富等特点,裙摆自下而上采用均匀收针工艺实现裙身接片设计;由于喇叭裙下摆与腰部围度差较大,只能采用横向编织方式并配合局部编织工艺实现裙身较大自然波浪设计。
In order to further promote the development of fully formed knitted products,the experimental method and case analysis method were used to study the forming method of fully formed knitted skirts based on the four-bed computerized flat knitting machine and SDS-ONE APEX3 design system.In this paper,tight skirt,inclined skirt and flare skirt were selected as research examples.According to the characteristics of their swing,the forming process was designed reasonably to realize the integrated forming of knitted skirt.According to the characteristics of body fitting and inconvenient movement of tight skirt,C-shaped knitting technology was adopted in the hem to realize the back split design,so as to increase the amount of leg movement.Based on the characteristics of the inclined skirt,such as the fineness and richness of the pleats,the uniform stitching process was adopted from the bottom to the top to realize the design of the skirt splicing.Due to the large difference between the hem and waist circumference of the trumpet skirt,the only way to achieve a more natural wave design of the skirt body is to use the horizontal knitting method and partial knitting technology.
作者
王莹莹
王盼
任婧媛
WANG Yingying;WANG Pan;REN Jingyuan(Departmet of Arts and Crafts,Huaibei Vocational&Technical College,Huaibei 235000,China;College of Textile Science and Engineering,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China;Applied Technology College,Soochow University,Suzhou 215325,China)
出处
《丝绸》
CAS
CSCD
北大核心
2020年第11期126-130,共5页
Journal of Silk
基金
安徽省质量工程项目(2019dsgzs11,2019xqsxzx23)
安徽省高校优秀人才支持计划重点项目(gxyqZD2020135)。
关键词
全成形
针织半身裙
版型设计
工艺参数
成形工艺
四针床电脑横机
fully formed
knitted skirt
pattern design
process parameters
forming process
four-bed computerized flat knitting machine
