摘要
针对传统袜子下机需套口缝合、生产成本高的问题,采用双针床电脑横机及 SDS-ONE APPEX3 设计系统,从花型设计、工艺参数以及编织工艺 3 方面对全成形袜子进行研究。根据袜头成形结构不同,提出普通包趾袜、五趾袜、内五趾袜的全成形袜子分类方法,分别探讨了全成形袜子各部段的编织工艺,其中对 3 种袜头编织工艺进行重点探讨。研究表明:袜头采用局部编织工艺实现圆弧状和内五指袜趾间隔片编织;在袜脚、袜筒编织过程,通过收放针工艺实现圆筒的横向尺寸变化;袜跟在引返编织同时进行收放针,以形成梯形袋状结构;袜口采用罗纹组织并插入弹性纱以防穿着时下滑,并采用平收工艺对袜口进行最后处理。
In order to solve artificial sewing and high production costs required by conventional socks, the V-bed computerized flat knitting machine and SDS-ONE APPEX3 design system was adopted to study the whole socks from pattern design, process parameters and knitting process. According to the sox head structure, the whole socks in common socks, toe socks and inner toe socks were proposed. The knitting technology of every part of whole socks was discussed. Three kinds of sox head knitting technology were discussed emphatically. It is found that sox head adopts partial technology to realize the circular shape and spacer knitting of inner toe socks. During the knitting process of sox foot and tube, the horizontal dimension change of the cylinder can be realized by the narrowing and widening process. The sox heel forms a trapezoidal bag structure by partial technology and narrowing and widening process. The sox mouth adopts a rib structure and inserts elastic yarn to prevent slipping when wearing. The final treatment of sox mouth adopts a press-off process.
作者
王盼
吴志明
WANG Pan;WU Zhiming(Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology, Ministry of Education, Jiangnan University, Wuxi,Jiangsu 214122,China)
出处
《纺织学报》
EI
CAS
CSCD
北大核心
2019年第7期44-50,共7页
Journal of Textile Research
基金
国家自然科学基金项目(61772238)
国家轻工技术与工程一流学科自主课题资助项目(2018-28)
关键词
横编
全成形袜子
工艺设计
编织原理
flat knitting
whole socks
process design
knitting principle
