摘要
为了研究全成形接片成形方法,探讨了接片对毛衫外观的影响。以岛精公司MACH2X15318G型、MACH2XS15312G型、SWG-N2型全成形电脑横机为试验设备,结合DS-ONE APPEX 3设计系统,对全成形接片成形工艺进行了研究。根据成品外观形态将全成形接片归纳为筒形、球形2种;又将筒形接片按照外观形态细分为4种：圆台形、腰鼓形、等边开口梯形、横向编织梯形。分析了等边开口梯形接片、横向编织梯形接片开始编织第一行单层变双层的编织方式,以及球形接片最后将所有纱环平收在一起的方式。探讨了接片在肩袖部位的应用,提出在编织正反针组织时接片编织的左肩会产生错行。
In order to study the panels technology of whole garment, the influence of different shaping methods on the appearance of sweater is studied. The panels process of full-forming sweater is accomplished by using shima seiki MACH2 X15318 G, MACH2 XS15312 G,SWG-N2 full-forming computer flat knitting machine combined with DS-ONE APPEX 3 design system. According to the appearance, thepanels are divided into two kinds of cylindrical and spherical. The tubular tabs are subdivided into four types according to the appearance：round table shape, waist drum shape, equilateral open trapezoidal shape, and horizontal knitting trapezoidal shape. The way the first row ofsingle layer changing to double layer with equilateral trapezoid and horizontal knitting trapezoid, and the way all the yarn splicing sphericalring flat finally together are analyzed. The application of the panels in the shoulder is explored and it is pointed out that the organization of woolen knitting pattern in left shoulder would be misaligned when knitting links stitch.
作者
邱庄岩
吴志明
QIU Zhuangyan;WU Zhiming(Yancheng Vocational Institute of Industry Technology,Yancheng 224005,China;Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology,Ministry of Education,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China)
出处
《上海纺织科技》
北大核心
2018年第7期43-47,共5页
Shanghai Textile Science & Technology
基金
江苏省产学研联合创新资金-前瞻性联合研究项目(BY2016022-09、BY2016022-35)
关键词
全成形毛衫
产品设计
接片工艺
结构
成形方式
fully-fashioned garment
product design
panels technology
structure
forming method
