摘要
通过对16座楚汉墓葬出土鞋履的制作工艺进行二维平面结构模拟,总结了鞋履制品的外观造型和编织工艺的异同。结合遣策、先秦文献、人俑图像等多重证据,针对鞋履部件的二维结构、构制技巧、工艺特征进行了阐释分析。结果表明:鞋履系带存废可能与征战、燕居功能分化相关,装饰鞋面可拆换是出于节用目的;鞋帮的绞编组织适合足部曲线;结合楚鞋底线结排布秩序比对,秦俑鞋底乳钉线结编织工艺得到证实;先秦编织鞋履的生产分工为男性。
Based on the two-dimensional structure simulation of shoes unearthed from 16 Chu and Han tombs,the similarities and differences of the appearance and weaving processes of shoes were summarized.Combined with the multiple evidences such as the records of excavated bamboo strip manuscripts,the documents of the pre-Qin dynasty and the image of the terracotta figures,the two-dimensional structure,construction skills and technological features of the shoes were explained and analyzed.The results show that the existence or abolishment of shoe lace might be related to the functional differentiation of battle and daily life,and the vamp could be removed for economical purposes.The braid structure of the upper fits the curve of the foot.According to the comparison of the layout order of sole lines of the Chu soles,the weaving process of Qin terracotta soles with knots has been confirmed.It is believed that the production labor of woven shoes in pre-Qin dynasty was male.
作者
夏添
王鸿博
崔荣荣
XIA Tian;WANG Hongbo;CUI Rongrong(College of Textile Science and Engineering,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China;School of Design,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China;Jiangsu Intangible Culture Heritage Base,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China)
出处
《丝绸》
CAS
CSCD
北大核心
2020年第10期87-94,共8页
Journal of Silk
基金
高校哲学社会科学研究重大项目(2019SJZDA130)
教育部人文社科研究项目(Z2019103009907)。
关键词
楚墓
西汉墓
荆楚地区
鞋履结构
编织工艺
楚文化
Chu tomb
tomb of the western Han dynasty
Jingchu area
structure of shoes
weaving process
Chu culture
