摘要
敦煌是丝绸之路的一个重要研究点,通过对散藏世界各地敦煌出土的纺织品中绮类织物的分析和整理,从组织纹样的角度对其进行分类,分析此类面料的组织特点、织造特点和生产技术,研究了平纹上起暗花的并丝织法。针对不同面料和组织,分别讨论了各种变化并丝的组合情况,发现此类绮织物组织规律特色明显,经纬纱线的基础运动规律变化不大,纬向多变;在使用较少综片的情况下得到较大的组织循环数,对现代素织物组织设计有一定的借鉴。
Dunhuang is one of the important research points of the Silk Road.Through the weave and structure analysis of Qi damask silk unearthed from Dunhuang,this paper classifies Qi damask silk from the perspective of weave patterns,analyzes weave feature of the fabric,weaving feature and production technology and studies parallel silk weaving method.Besides,various varied parallel silk combinations are discussed according to different fabrics and tissues.It is found that fabric weave law of Qi damask silk has outstanding features; the basic law of motion of warp and weft yarns changes little; the weft direction changes frequently; the weave cycle number is larger with less heddle case.It has certain reference value for modern dobby fabric.
出处
《丝绸》
CAS
北大核心
2014年第8期14-19,共6页
Journal of Silk
关键词
绮
并丝织法
组织
敦煌
丝绸之路
生产技术
Qi damask silk
parallel silk weaving method
weave
Dunhuang
Silk Road
production technology
