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“粗茶淡饭”:北宋士绅阶层的新型饮食文化 被引量:2

"Weak Tea and Scanty Meals":New Dietary Culture of the Gentry Class in Early Northern Song Dynasty
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摘要 “粗茶淡饭”在北宋前期广受推崇,对北宋士绅阶层以及南宋部分士人具有深广影响。从历史传统追溯,孔子有“君子食无求饱”的倡导。宋人的“粗茶淡饭”,具体指食材简单易得、制作和烹饪方式较为随意的日常饮食;其实质则是不看重物质财富,力求通过减少物质欲望来解脱内心,从而获取某种内在超越性。这种追求源于宋代士绅阶层强烈的道德感和责任感,士大夫倡导对物质财富采取节俭的态度,这为倡导“粗茶淡饭”式生活创造了客观条件。作为文化精英阶层,士大夫还赋予“粗茶淡饭”以“雅”的内蕴,使其既满足道德要求,又与文人尚雅的情致相统一,从而实现“粗茶淡饭”从道德到审美的升华。 In the early Northern Song Dynasty,"weak tea and scanty meals"was widely advocated,which had profound and wide influence on some scholars in elite class in Northern and Southern Song Dynasties.From the perspective of historical tradition,Confu⁃cius once advocated that a gentleman should be half fed.The"weak tea and scanty meals"of gentry class in the Song Dynasty meant that the food materials were simple and easy to get,and the way of making and cooking was daily.Its essence was not to value material wealth,but to free mind by reducing material desire,so as to obtain internal transcendence.This pursuit originated from the strong sense of morality and responsibility of the gentry class in the Song Dynasty.The literati advocated a thrifty attitude towards material wealth,which created an objective condition for the life of simple diet.As an elite class,the gentry class endowed"weak tea and scanty meals"with the connotation of"elegance",which not only met the moral requirements but also unified with the gentry class′s advocating of"elegance",and therefore completed the sublimation of simple diet from morality to aesthetics.
作者 刘俞廷 Liu Yuting
机构地区 山东大学文学院
出处 《中州学刊》 CSSCI 北大核心 2020年第7期141-147,共7页 Academic Journal of Zhongzhou
关键词 “粗茶淡饭” 黄庭坚 苏轼 士绅阶层 饮食文化 "weak tea and scanty meals" Huang Tingjian Su Shi gentry class dietary culture
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