摘要
奈良国立博物馆馆藏《天寿国绣帐》是日本现存最古的刺绣工艺品,代表了当时最高水平的染色技术与刺绣技术。通过对天寿国绣帐的绣法、材质、图像的分析,可明晰日本早期纺织工艺概况与服制规范,探讨绣帐的艺术文献价值。研究认为:东亚地区制作、礼赞绣佛的礼佛行为具有一定的普遍性,宗教题材刺绣的传播是东亚早期刺绣技艺传承的重要推动力量;日本受益于中国大陆的文明影响,公元7世纪贵族阶层开始使用工艺较为复杂的绢、罗、丝等纤维制品,社会各阶层服制趋于固定;贵族女性是早期刺绣技艺的主要传承者,早期刺绣技法相对单一,此后日本刺绣的题材内容与表现技法逐渐呈现和风意匠,形成强烈的日本审美意趣,走向与输出母国不同的装饰之路。
Embroidered Curtain Depicting Paradise(Tenjukoku Shucho)in Nara National Museum is Japan’s oldest existing embroidery handicraft,representing the highest level of dyeing and embroidery technology at that time.By analyzing the embroidering method,materials and images of Tenjukoku Shucho,the general situation of early Japanese textile processing and clothing standard were clarified,and the artistic literature value of embroidery tent were discussed.The research suggests that,in East Asia,the activities of making,worshipping and praising embroidered Buddha are very popular to some extent,and spreading embroidery with religious subjects was an important driving force for the inheritance of embroidery techniques in early East Asia.Japan benefited from the influence of civilization of China's Mainland.In the 7 th century,the aristocracy began to use Juan,Luo,silk and other fiber products with complicated technology,and the clothing of all social classes tended to be fixed.Aristocratic women were the main inheritors of the early embroidery techniques.In the early stage,the embroidery techniques were relatively single.As time went by,the theme,content and expression techniques of Japanese embroidery gradually presented Japanese style and a strong aesthetic taste of Japan,which led to a different way of decoration from that of the home country.
作者
林静静
LIN Jingjing(School of Arts,Nantong University,Nantong 226000,China)
出处
《丝绸》
CAS
CSCD
北大核心
2020年第8期107-111,共5页
Journal of Silk
基金
国家社科基金艺术学项目(15BF081)。
关键词
东亚文化
日本
染色
刺绣
绣佛
工艺品
East Asian culture
Japan
dyeing
embroidery
embroidered Buddha
handicraft article