摘要
宋代是中国饮食文化飞跃发展时期,盖由于城市经济之繁荣,士人境遇之优渥,享乐需求之郁勃,乃穷极想象调制之工,以满足口腹之欲。观《东京梦华录》、《武林旧事》、《旸谷漫录·京师厨娘》等,可见一斑。而宋之士大夫率多饱学之士,兼通释道,喜谈性理,其论饮食,亦往往钩玄致远,达于形上。故宋人笔记涉及饮食者,每每超越于饮食,常有关乎品格、性情之妙论。若东坡之"毳饭"、山谷之"品食",皆非徒论饮食者可以窥其涯略。至若《武林旧事》与《枫窗小牍》所载之"宋五嫂鱼羹",则已牵带家国兴亡之感、黍离麦秀之悲矣。明清两代,哺啜者益众。笔记亦篇帙浩繁,且往往谈及饮食。而士大夫之情趣高下、品鉴之精粗雅俗,足可于短章片言中玩味揣摩,亦知人之一途也。又明清笔记所涉地域极广,涉及饮食,自极北之新疆以迄南部之闽广,可以广见闻、助博物、资考证、辨风俗。如一西施舌,即有陈懋仁《泉南杂志》、李渔《闲情偶寄》、周亮工《闽小记》等多部笔记涉及;一河豚,自宋之苏轼、元之陶宗仪、明之谢肇淛以迄清之《调鼎集》,记录不绝如缕。然评骘此类笔记,当以有无人文价值及文学性为取舍标准。若漫逞口腹之欲,徒作烹调之谱,如袁枚之《随园食单》("花边月饼"即出此书)者,实不足多。
Chinese diet culture had developed rapidly in the Song Dynasty, thanks to economic growth in cities as well as the improvement of the scholar-bureaucrats’living conditions and the increase of hedonistic needs in the whole society. By reading Dongjing Menghua Lu, Wulin Jiu Shi, Yanggu Man Lu and other books, we knew that, in those days, people concentrated on opening up their own imagination and creativity adequately, in order to satisfy their appetites for food and drink. Most of the scholar- bureaucrats in the Song Dynasty were better-learned and superb talented. They were mostly the great masters in both Buddhism and Daoism, and tend to have discussion on human natures and doctrines. For this reason, the scholar-bureaucrats could usually achieve the metaphysical realm when commenting on diet and drinks. Therefore, when discussing and recording the diet in the jottings, not only appetites for food and drink, but also the character and morals were concerned, such as 'Cu Fan'related with Su Dongpo and 'Pin Shi'related with Huang Tingjian. In especial',Songwusao Brandade'recorded by Wulin Jiu Shi even contained the historical thinking on the fate of nation. In the Ming Dynasty and the Qing Dynasty, with more and more gourmands, more and more words about diet were seen in the jottings and notes. And there appeared different tastes and grades among the scholar-bureaucrats, which mirrored in their words observably. By reading one’s words, we might see his character and sentiment. The jotting and notes in the Ming and Qing dynasties, which were great in number, covered a wide range of food and drink throughout the country. Reading those book, people could broaden their views and expand their knowledge. For example, on the subject of'Xishi Tongues'diet, there were many jotting recording and describing, such as Quannan Jotting written by Chen Maoren, Xian Qing Ou Ji written by Li Yu, Min Xiao Ji written by Zhou Lianggong; On the subject of cooking puffer fish, there were Su Dongpo, Tao Zongyi, Xie Zhaozhe and other s
出处
《文学与文化》
2013年第2期96-104,共9页
Literature and Culture Studies
关键词
饮食文化
笔记
士大夫
Diet Culture
Ancient Jotting and Notes
Scholar-bureaucrats
