摘要
为了实现羊毛纱低捻高强目标,提高织物质量,探究低扭矩环锭纺纱工艺对不同捻系数羊毛纱性能和织物纬斜情况的影响,采用低扭矩环锭纺纱工艺纺制不同捻系数的25 tex羊毛纱,并与25 tex常规环锭纺羊毛纱的断裂强度、断裂伸长率、毛羽指数和条干均匀度进行对比。结果表明:羊毛纱线密度为25 tex时,相同捻系数下,低扭矩环锭纺纱工艺羊毛纱的断裂强度较常规环锭纺平均提高约10%;断裂伸长率较常规环锭纺平均提高15%左右;长毛羽(3~9 mm)指数下降趋势明显,降低了织物的起毛起球;短毛羽(1~2 mm)指数上升趋势明显,使织物触感更加丰满和柔软;条干均匀度较常规环锭纺显著降低;低扭矩环锭纺羊毛纱所织针织小样较常规环锭纺纬斜率降低15%左右,为羊毛纱及针织物的开发提供了新的思路和方法。
In order to achieve the goal of low twist and high strength of wool yarns and to improve the quality of fabrics,investigating the effect of low-torque ring spinning process on the performance of wool yarns with different twist factors and fabric weft skew conditions,25 tex wool yarns with different twist factors were spun by low-torque ring spinning process and the tenacity,breaking extension,hairiness index and dryness uniformity of these wool yarns were compared with those of the 25 tex wool yarns spun by conventional ring-spun.The results show that when the wool yarn fineness is 25 tex,at the same twisting coefficient,the breaking strength of the wool yarn of the low-torque ring spinning process is about 10%higher than that of the conventional ring spinning;the breaking extension is about 15%higher than that of the conventional ring spinning;the decreasing trend of long hairiness index(3-9 mm)is obvious,which reduces the pilling of fabrics;the short hair index(1-2 mm)is significantly increased,which makes the fabric feel fuller and softer;the dryness uniformity is significantly reduced compared to that of conventional ring spinning;the weft slope of the knitted samples made from low-torque ring-spun wool yarns is about 15%lower than that of conventional ring-spun yarns,provides new ideas and methods for the development of wool yarns and knitted fabrics.
作者
郑光明
华新忠
陆卫国
李豪
郁崇文
ZHENG Guangming;HUA Xinzhong;LU Weiguo;LI Hao;YU Chongwen(College of Textiles,Donghua University,Shanghai 201620,China;Zhejiang Xin′ao Textile Co.,Ltd.,Jiaxing,Zhejiang 314000,China)
出处
《毛纺科技》
CAS
北大核心
2024年第5期1-5,共5页
Wool Textile Journal
基金
上海市现代纺织前沿科学研究基地项目(沪教委科[2021]13号)。
关键词
低扭矩纱
环锭纺
羊毛纱
强伸性能
毛羽指数
纬斜率
low-torque yarns
ring-spuning
wool yarns
stretch properties
hairiness index
weft slope
