摘要
为满足消费者的需求和愿望,在优化产品时,需要做感官评价。以“人”作为测量工具的感官评价需要控制个体差异性,而流变学测量和质构分析等仪器测量方法,操作简单、成本更低、结果客观可重复。文章查阅了国内外化妆品感官评价和仪器分析表征相关的文献,介绍了描述性感官分析中各感官属性的定义,总结与感官属性强相关的仪器参数和测试方法,列出部分感官属性与仪器参数的拟合方程,为化妆品在开发阶段的配方设计和筛选提供科学依据。提出部分感官属性和仪器参数的相关性研究尚不完整,后续研究还应考虑不同皮肤类型的消费者在使用化妆品后感官属性的差异,通过仪器分析对不同皮肤类型感官属性预测的研究方向进行展望。
With the rapid growth of the cosmetics industry,sensory evaluation is required when designing and optimizing products to meet consumers’increasing needs and aspirations.Instrumental measurement methods such as rheology measurement and texture analysis have the advantages of simple operation,lower cost,objective and repeatability,which can control individual differences when using“people”as a tool for sensory evaluation.This article reviewed the literature on sensory evaluation and instrumental analysis and characterization of cosmetics in the domestic and overseas,introduced the definitions of various sensory attributes in sensory analysis,summarized instrument parameters and test methods strongly related to sensory attributes,and listed fitting equations for some sensory attributes and instrument parameters,providing a scientific basis for the formulation design and screening of cosmetics during R&D.However,there was an incomplete study of the correlation between certain sensory properties and instrument parameters,such as visual acuity,softness,smoothness,moisture,and other sensory properties.Subsequent studies should also consider the differences in sensory properties of consumers with different skin types after cosmetics use.The information in this paper would help readers to understand the correlation between sensory evaluation and instrumental parameters,providing a scientific reference for the development of cosmetics with good skin sensation.
作者
周文瑞
贺建彪
焦倩
王紫迪
苏芊芊
贾焱
Wenrui Zhou;Jianbiao He;Qian Jiao;Zidi Wang;Qianqian Su;Yan Jia(China Key Laboratory of Light Industry Cosmetics,School of Light Industry Science and Engineering,Beijing Technology and Business University,Beijing 100048,China;Beijing Key Laboratory of Plant Resources Research and Development,School of Light Industry Science and Engineering,Beijing Technology and Business University,Beijing 100048,China;Scientific Research Base of Cosmetics Supervision,Beijing Technology and Business University,Beijing 100048,China)
出处
《日用化学工业（中英文）》
CAS
北大核心
2024年第3期344-352,共9页
China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics
关键词
感官评价
流变学特性
质构分析技术
数学模型
sensory evaluation
rheological properties
texture analysis technology
mathematical model
