摘要
刺绣作为传统工艺技法之一,是纺织文明中璀璨且不可或缺的明珠,是跨越地域、文化与种族的共有产物与交流媒介。随着社会变迁与审美嬗变,贵金属材料逐渐融入纺织领域,各国各族间形成特征鲜明且风格多元的刺绣技法。文章纵向探索中国盘金绣与乌兹别克斯坦金线绣的材料起源与技艺转变,横向比较不同地域流派、纺织品载体中的工艺特征,讨论造就各国技法差异的时代背景与社会需求,完善刺绣史体系与框架,并进一步阐述刺绣技法中蕴含的文化样式与社会意识,推动亚洲服饰材料与技艺的融合与发展,为各国服饰设计的交融与再创新提供可能性。
Embroidery,as one of the traditional craftsmanship techniques,is a brilliant and indispensable gem in textile civilization.It is a shared product and communication medium spanning regions,cultures and races.With social and aesthetic changes,precious metal materials have gradually integrated into the textile industry,forming distinctive and diverse embroidery techniques among countries and ethnic groups.This paper vertically explores the material origins and technological changes of Chinese Panjin Embroidery and Uzbekistan Gold Thread Embroidery,horizontally compares the technological characteristics of different regional schools and textile carriers,discusses the historical background and social needs that create differences in techniques among countries,improves the embroidery history system and framework,and further elaborates on the cultural styles and social consciousness contained in embroidery techniques,in order to promote the integration and development of Asian clothing materials and techniques,provide possibilities for the integration and re-innovation of clothing design in various countries.
作者
魏雪儿
龚建培
Wei Xue’er;Gong Jianpei(School of Design,Nanjing University of the Arts,Nanjing 210013,China)
基金
江苏省社科基金文脉专项“江苏刺绣史”(23WMB003)阶段性成果。
关键词
中国盘金绣
乌兹别克斯坦金线绣
材料
工艺特征
比较研究
Chinese Panjin Embroidery
Uzbekistan Gold Thread Embroidery
materials
technological characteristics
comparative study
