摘要
以“通经断纬”为主要特征的缂织技法在纺织文明史中具有重要的历史地位,其在漫长的历史演变过程中发展出风格鲜明的西方缂毛与东方缂丝。从缂织物的考古实物及相关的文献史料出发,分别梳理缂毛与缂丝的起源;通过归纳演绎的论证方式,分别从羊毛与蚕丝的材料性能及其与缂织工艺的适配性、东西方早期织机类型与织造工艺发展路径的差异、东西方文化中对传统织锦装饰主题与图案选择的不同等理论层面,探讨东方缂丝起源时间晚于西方缂毛的主要原因及影响因素,进一步印证了目前学界对于两者起源时序的认知。分析认为:随着东西方纺织技术的交流,以及桑蚕技术的普及与生产范围的扩大,在中国古西域地区产生了缂毛启发缂丝的源头,继而中国缂丝在千百年来工匠们生产创作的积累中不断精进,无论在技术上还是艺术上都攀至另一座高峰。
Ke weaving technology takes"passing the warps and breaking wefts"as its main characteristic,and it has an important historical position in the history of textile civilization.In the long course of development and evolution,it gives birth to the distinct styles of Western kemao and eastern kesi.This paper combed the origin of kemao and kesi from the perspective of archaeological evidence and relevant documents and historical data of the ke weaving fabric.By means of induction and deduction,it is demonstrated that the origin of the kemao fabric should be earlier than that of the kesi fabric from the following aspects:the performance characteristics of wool and silk fibers and their compatibility with the tapestry process,the differences between the early weaving system and the development path of the weaving process in the East and the West,and the differences in the selection of traditional tapestry decoration themes and patterns in the East and the West.Due to the continuous exchange of the ancient Eastern and Western textile technology and the continuous evolution of the origin of raw materials,the origin of the kesi inspired by the kesi was created in the western regions of China,and then the kesi of China continued to improve in the accumulation of artisans'production and creation for thousands of years,reaching the peak both in technology and art.
作者
胡霄睿
孙丰鑫
HU Xiaorui;SUN Fengxin(School of Design,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China;College of Textile Science and Engineering,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China)
出处
《服装学报》
CAS
2023年第3期229-234,共6页
Journal of Clothing Research
基金
江苏省社会科学基金青年项目(20YSC002)
江苏省高校哲学社会科学研究一般项目(2019SJA0744)。
关键词
缂织
缂丝
缂毛
纺织文明
起源
ke weaving
kesi
kemao
textile civilization
origin
