摘要
文章通过对上海图书馆晚清与民国时期期刊全文数据库数据挖掘,结合其他文献资料佐证与补充,获得统计数据,包括期刊数量、创刊时间、出版地、种类、服饰时尚信息浓度和检索词搜索量等,并对它们作了数据分析。统计结果表明:近代刊载服饰时尚信息的重要期刊有100种,其中专业服饰时尚期刊为数不多,大部分服饰时尚信息分散刊载于其他各类期刊;相关期刊及其刊发服饰时尚信息的起源与发展阶段可分为萌芽期、发展期、高峰期和回落期;相关期刊的出版地集中于上海、北京、天津、南京、广州、香港地区等大城市,上海是相关期刊最主要的出版地;刊载的服饰主题以西装、礼服、大衣等居多,其次为旗袍、裙和内衣等。文章对《良友》等10种典型期刊的服饰主题特色进行了剖析;最后分析了中国近代刊载服饰时尚信息重要期刊的特点与作用,即信息刊载方式已呈现多维度的出版形式,服饰主题内容已构建起全方位的服饰结构体系,服饰时尚理念已渗透到人们生活的各个方面,服饰信息的传播推动了人们着装观念的转变与近代服饰的演进。
Fashion information refers to a series of information about clothing and accessories,such as style,design,sewing,and display.The journal is an important carrier of publishing information.Through retrieval and collection,and from the perspective of communication,this paper conducted research on the related journals that published fashion information in modern China.It investigated publication conditions,types and ways of related journals publishing fashion information,and made statistical analysis on the features of fashion subject content.It provides precious historical materials for the study of fashion and culture in modern China.By professional retrieval and screening for full-text databases of journals in the late Qing Dynasty and the Republic of China in Shanghai Library,combined with evidence and supplement of other literature,this paper collected important journals publishing fashion information and analyzed the number,type,launching time,publishing place,information concentration and search term of these journals.Six major conclusions were drawn.First,there were 100 important journals that published fashion information in modern China.Second,these related important journals fall into two broad categories.The first category is professional fashion journals,including special issues,which are called the fashion category;the second category is non-professional fashion journals that regularly or irregularly published fashion information.These could be divided into comprehensive pictorial,fine arts,photography,film,women,children,life,literature and art,social science,economy,news,etc.There were only a few professional fashion journals concentrating on publishing fashion information,and fashion information was published mostly in fashion columns of various kinds of other journals,among which,comprehensive pictorials were the most frequent,accounting for about one third of the total,followed by women’s magazines,accounting for nearly one seventh of the total.Third,the publication of fashion information was not
作者
徐建红
吴川灵
XU Jianhong;WU Chuanling(Donghua University Press,Shanghai 200051,China)
出处
《丝绸》
CAS
CSCD
北大核心
2023年第9期93-103,共11页
Journal of Silk
基金
上海市哲学社会科学规划课题项目(2020BLS005)。
关键词
服饰时尚
近代中国
期刊
信息
统计分析
主题内容
服饰主题
fashion
modern China
journal
information
statistical analysis
subject content
fashion subject
