摘要
贵州黄平苗族女性盛装上衣具有很强的支系识别性,其所选用绸缎面料及整体的紫褐(未染色)或金绿(染色)的色彩体系,全部以抽象几何造型的装饰纹样实属罕见。“后背中心视角”的装饰特征都与贵州其他支系苗族女性盛装服饰形成鲜明的对比,以往对其的研究并不多见。文章以实物样本为基础,从款式、造型与结构、色彩特征、装饰与纹样特征、美学特征几个层面对其盛装上衣进行全面解读。从而进一步探究黄平苗族女性盛装上衣色彩背后的文化内涵,以单数为尚的数字排列所展现的节奏韵律与审美喜好,几何的装饰构成所展现出的理性之美及其独特的“后背中心视角”的美学特征。
Splendid attire tops of Guizhou Huangping Miao women have a strong branch recognition.From the color point of view,the satin fabric and the overall purple brown(undyed)or golden green(dyed)color system are rare in Guizhou Miao clothing.From the point of view of pattern,Huangping women’s splendid attire tops are almost entirely decorated with rare and abstract geometric patterns which have rich“number”connotations.From the point of view of decorative characteristics,the unique“back center perspective”constitutes a unique display of the back perspective focus,which is in sharp contrast with other formal clothes of Miao women in Guizhou.In the past,there were only few studies on Huangping clothing of Guizhou Miao,including Yang Shizhang’s Huangping Miao Costume Trial and A Brief Discussion on the Art of Huangping Miao Costume,Pan Mei’s Miao People’s Embroidery Pattern of Huangping,Guizhou,China and Xiao Shaoju’s Mathematics Factor Digging and Mathematics Beauty of the Miao Nationality Finery,etc.These articles respectively start from the perspectives of overview,patterns and pattern numbers,which does not match the color,pattern and decorative aesthetic art characteristics of most Guizhou Miao costumes presented by Huangping Miao costumes.Therefore,the study of Huangping Miao women’s splendid attire tops is of great significance.Starting from the research method of physical sample analysis,we comprehensively interpreted the artistic characteristics of splendid attire tops by combining some plane composition rules and aesthetic principles,and sorted out five artistic characteristics of Guizhou Huangping Miao women’s splendid attire tops.First,the splendid attire top of Guizhou Huangping Miao women is flatly cut and hand-sewn collared placket,and geometric patterns are distributed on the back,sleeves,shoulders and placket.The bottom is a pleated skirt with relatively fine pleats,and the hem is embroidered with multiple horizontal patterns.Auxiliary clothing is divided into head clothing,waistband
作者
周梦
王超群
ZHOU Meng;WANG Chaoqun(Academy of Fine Arts,Minzu University of China,Beijing 100081,China)
出处
《丝绸》
CAS
CSCD
北大核心
2023年第8期122-132,共11页
Journal of Silk
基金
国家社会科学基金艺术学项目(19BG120)。
关键词
贵州
黄平苗族
盛装上衣
装饰艺术
后背中心视角
理性之美
Guizhou
Huangping Miao
splendid attire tops
decorative art
back center view
the beauty of reason
