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唐代纺织品装饰纹样中“有翼神兽”的研究

Study on“winged chimeras”in the decorative patterns of textiles in the Tang Dynasty
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摘要 通过查阅古籍文献资料中多种“有翼神兽”特征的描述,并将其与北京服装学院民族服饰博物馆MFB9736唐代半臂藏品中的纹样进行比对,判断出该藏品中的“有翼神兽”纹样称谓为“飞廉”。唐代纺织品装饰中所见“有翼神兽”纹样种类包括中国本土“飞廉”纹、外来“格里芬”纹与“森木鹿”纹,以及最为常见的“翼马”纹、“翼鹿”纹等。而随着中外文化的不断交融发展,中国本土的“飞廉”有翼神兽纹样逐渐被外来文化中的“有翼神兽”纹所替代并逐渐消失,并且典型的外来“格里芬”纹与“森木鹿”纹也并没有成为唐代的主流纹样,反而最为常见的“有翼神兽”纹样造型则是抛弃了传统有翼神兽“多种动物形象组合”的特征,只见单一动物形象与羽翼组合方式的“翼马”纹、“翼鹿”纹等。无论是中国本土的“飞廉”有翼神兽纹还是外来的有翼神兽“格里芬”纹与“森木鹿”纹,终究没有成为唐代装饰艺术中的主流。本文探究其现象背后的原因,主要与中国传统文化中有翼神兽“飞廉”的功能、唐代道教求道升仙观念的削弱与养生观念的提升,以及唐统治者对于外来艺术的接受态度与取舍有直接的关系。 The“winged chimera”is an ancient art theme worldwide,and it has a different name and image under different cultures.In ancient China,the“winged chimera”was initially a common theme in stone sculptures and bronzes in tombs.It was first seen as a pattern appearing in textile decoration in the Eastern Han Dynasty.As for the“winged chimera”pattern of the MFB9736 collection,the half-sleeved shirt of the Tang Dynasty collected by Ethnic Costume Museum,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,it was determined to be called“Fei Lian”according to the Chinese ancient literature about the image description of a variety of“winged chimeras”.In the historical development of Chinese arts and crafts,the image of Chinese“Fei Lian”evolved from the Western Zhou Dynasty to the Tang Dynasty due to the continuous infiltration of foreign culture.In this process,the“Fei Lian”pattern image of MFB9736 collection was formed,but it is almost an isolated example in the whole Tang textile decoration pattern system.Most of the textiles in the Tang Dynasty adopted the patterns of“winged horse”,“winged deer”,etc.which were composed of a single animal and wings with exotic styles,or the patterns of“Griffin”and“Senmurv”of“winged chimeras”from foreign cultures.In addition,in the context of the multicultural integration of the Tang Dynasty,neither did the“Fei Lian”pattern originated from the local,nor did the foreign“Griffin”pattern and“Senmurv”pattern become the mainstream pattern in the decorative art theme of the Tang Dynasty.Instead,the“winged horse”pattern and“winged deer”pattern,etc.which were composed of a single animal and wings in an exotic style seemed to be more accepted by the Tang people.Based on this phenomenon,it is of great academic value to study the patterns of“winged chimeras”in the textiles of the Tang Dynasty.After using the observation method of image data to sort out the evolution process of the winged chimera“Fei Lian”pattern image in Chinese history,a
作者 韩楚彤 贺阳 HAN Chutong;HE Yang(Art college,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029,China;Ethnic Costume Museum,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029,China)
出处 《丝绸》 CAS CSCD 北大核心 2023年第6期142-150,共9页 Journal of Silk
基金 国家社会科学基金艺术学重大项目(18ZD20) 教育部服务国家特殊需求博士人才培养项目(NHFZ20190111)。
关键词 有翼神兽纹 飞廉纹 格里芬纹 森木鹿纹 纺织品纹样 唐代 winged chimera pattern Fei Lian pattern Griffin pattern Senmurv pattern textile patterns the Tang Dynasty
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