摘要
[研究意义]对中国近代服饰图书进行整理与研究,为中国近代纺织服饰技术史、经济史、文化史、教育史、出版史研究提供珍贵史料。[研究方法]文章阐述了中国近代服饰图书的内容范围,统计了服饰图书的数量,并对各时期服饰图书的内容特色、作者分布和出版地分布做了分析。[研究结果与结论]整理与研究表明:从1912—1949年,服饰图书有120种,内容可分为服装科普、服装设计、服装制作、服装经济、刺绣和编结等门类,作者有个人、官方机构、企业和学校,出版地分布于上海、江苏、北京、四川、湖南、辽宁等地。中国近代服饰图书以科普图书和教科书居多,对社会大众尤其是少年儿童服饰知识的普及起到了积极作用;图书内容以服装为主、刺绣和编结为辅,它们一起组成了丰富多彩的服饰图书,美化了大众生活;图书多由书局出版,尤其是著名书局,它们的参与保证了图书的出版质量;出版地域和数量与社会政治经济状况密切相关,出版地域还随出版机构的迁移而变化。
As a part of modern textile books,modern costume books played an important role in the popularization of cos⁃tume cultural knowledge,the promotion of traditional Chinese embroidery,the improvement of costume making technology,and the guidance of costume collocation.According to the content and quantity analysis,the development of costume books in mod⁃ern China could be divided into three stages:early period(1912-1919),growth period(1920-1936)and tortuous period(1937-1949).Costume books were collated and researched in modern China,and provided valuable historical materials for the study of modern textile and costume technology history,economic history,cultural history,educational history and publishing history in modern China.This paper expounded the content range of costume books in modern China,counted the number of costume books,and ana⁃lyzed the content characteristics,distribution of authors and distribution of publishing places of costume books in different peri⁃ods.The results showed that,from 1912 to 1949,there were 120 kinds of costume books,the contents of which could be divided into costume science popularization,costume design,costume making,costume economy,embroidery and knitting.In these books,there were 24 kinds of costume science popularization books,accounting for 20.0%of the total;19 kinds of costume de⁃sign books,accounting for 15.8%of the total;13 kinds of costume making books,accounting for 10.8%of the total;6 kinds of cos⁃tume economy books,accounting for 5.0%of the total;23 kinds of embroidery books,accounting for 19.2%of the total;35 kinds of knitting books,accounting for 29.2%of the total.The authors were individuals,official organizations,enterprises and schools.These books were published in Shanghai,Jiangsu,Beijing,Sichuan,Hunan,Liaoning and other places.Most of these books were popular science books and textbooks,which play a positive role in popularizing the costume knowledge of the public,especially the children.The contents were mainly clothing,supplemented by embroidery
作者
施敏俊
吴川灵
SHI Minjun;WU Chuanling(Library,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051 China;Donghua University Press,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051 China)
出处
《服饰导刊》
2022年第6期86-93,共8页
Fashion Guide
基金
上海市哲学社会科学规划课题项目(2020BLS005)。
关键词
近代中国
服饰图书
出版数量
图书内容
图书作者
图书出版地
modern China
costume books
number of publications
content of books
author of books
publishing place of books
