摘要
为了解决目前经编成形服饰结构单一,从设计到成品需要反复打样、耗时废材的问题,首先利用经编织物的成形原理,结合人体热湿分布以及各部位运动幅度的大小分析,将上衣分为衣身、衣袖和衣领三大部件,进行各部件的基础纸样设计,并根据不同部位的需求对各部件进行设计分区,主要分为4个区域:功能区、设计区、自由区、固定区。其次在经编CAD系统中对不同的设计区域进行贾卡组织设计,织出各贾卡组织的样布。对面料的物理属性进行测试分析,得到具体参数,应用Style 3D软件进行参数设置调整,完成经编成形高领T恤的三维建模与虚拟展示。最终按线上设计与模拟数据进行实例织造,为实现经编成形服饰的快速开发提供有效途径。
In order to solve the problem of single structure of warp knitted clothing, which requires repeated proofing and waste materials from design to finished products. Firstly, based on the forming principle of warp knitted fabrics, combined with the analysis of the heat and moisture distribution of human body and the movement range of each part, the top is divided into three parts: body, sleeve and collar. The basic pattern of each part is designed, and the design of each part is divided according to the needs of different parts. It is mainly divided into four areas: functional area, design area, free area and fixed area. Secondly, jacquard weave is designed for different design areas in warp knitting CAD system, and jacquard weave samples are woven. The physical properties of the fabric are tested and analyzed, and the specific parameters are obtained. The style 3 D software is used to set and adjust the parameters, and the three-dimensional modeling and virtual display of the warp knitted high neck T-shirt are completed. Finally, an example weaving is carried out according to the online design and simulation data, which provides an effective way to realize the rapid development of warp knitted clothing.
作者
邹亚男
夏风林
董智佳
储开元
ZOU Yanan;XIA Fenglin;DONG Zhijia;CHU Kaiyuan(Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology,Ministry of Education,Wuxi 214122,Jiangsu,China;Jiangsu Huayi Knitting Co.,Ltd.,Yixing 214253,Jiangsu,China)
出处
《上海纺织科技》
北大核心
2022年第5期44-49,共6页
Shanghai Textile Science & Technology
基金
中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金资助项目(JUSRP52013 B)
国家自然科学基金(61902150)。
关键词
经编织物
成形针织物
高领T恤
分区设计
工艺模型
warp-knitted fabric
formed hosiery
high neck T-shirt
zone design
craft model
