摘要
以玉石纤维、天丝和竹炭纤维为原料,通过改变面料成分、组织结构和密度,设计9款针织T恤衫面料,并测试其10项性能指标。利用灰色近优模型综合评价的方法,计算面料性能指标的近优度,比较各种针织面料的综合服用性能。结果表明:夏季针织T恤衫面料采用1+1罗纹组织,成分为天丝/玉石纤维50/50,横密、纵密分别为90列/(5 cm)、80行/(5 cm)时,综合性能的近优度最接近1,在设计的9款针织面料中综合服用性能最好。在10项测试指标中,纵向弹性对综合性能影响最大,对近优度的关联度数值为0.775 8;纵向吸湿性对综合性能影响最小,对近优度的关联度数值为0.587 3。
Based on the changes of fabric composition,structure and fabric density,9knitted fabrics and10properties of fabrics were tested,that the fabric blended with jade fiber,tencel and bamboo charcoal fiber.The gray and near-excellent comprehensive evaluation method was used to analyze and calculate fabric performance test indicators of the near-excellent,compared the comprehensive performance of various knitted fabrics.The results showed that the knitted T-shirt fabric used in the summer was1+1ribbed fabric,the ratio of the fabric composition tencel/jade fiber was50/50,and the horizontal and vertical density was90and80general classifier every5cm respectively.The closest to1,in the design of9knitted fabrics in the overall performance was the best.Among the10test indexes,the longitudinal elasticity had the greatest effect on the comprehensive performance,and the correlation degree of the near-excellent degree was0.7758.The vertical hygroscopicity had the least effect on the comprehensive performance,and the correlation degree of the near-excellent degree was0.5873.
作者
吴国辉
程浩南
WU Guohui;CHENG Haonan(Jiangxi Institute of Fashion Technology,Nanchang, Jiangxi 330201,China;Jiangxi Provincial Modern Research Center of Clothing Engineering Technology,Nanchang, Jiangxi 330201,China)
出处
《毛纺科技》
CAS
北大核心
2018年第3期9-12,共4页
Wool Textile Journal
基金
江西省教育厅科学技术研究项目(GJJ161207)
关键词
灰色近优模型
T恤衫
近优度
服用性能
grey optimal model
T-shirt
premium degree
fabric wearability