摘要
从中西传统服装基本造型差异、中西传统丝绸服装穿着状态差异和中西传统服装强调丝绸的不同特性等角度出发,比较分析了中西方丝绸面料运用方式的差异。研究认为,中西传统丝绸服装的面料运用方式有显著差异:中国传统丝绸服装服装飘逸柔美,采用宽大直身的平面造型,穿着后面料随形体游离于身体表面,自然舒适,顺应了丝绸原本的质感特点,属顺势而为型面料应用方式;西方传统丝绸服装华丽端庄,往往采用物理手段为丝绸服装塑造特定造型,令丝绸面料硬挺有型、厚实如壳,克服了丝绸硬度与韧度不足的弱点,属强势改造型面料应用方式。
This paper conducts a comparative analysis on differences of fabric application mode between Chinese and Western silk based on differences of basic form of Chinese and Western traditional clothing, differences of wearing state between Chinese and Western traditional silk costume and different features of silk emphasized by Chinese and Western traditional clothing. The research considers that the fabric application mode of Chinese and Western traditional silk costume has significant differences： Chinese traditional silk costume is elegant and graceful with the plane modeling of wide and straight body. After wearing, the fabric moves on the body surface with the body, making people feel natural and comfortable. It follows the original texture features of silk and belongs to ＂go with the flow＂ type fabric application mode; Western traditional silk costume is luxuriant and dignified and physical means are often taken to make specific shapes for silk costume, making overcoming weaknesses of inadequate silk hardness application mode. silk fabric in great shape and as thick as a shell and and tenacity. It belongs to ＂strong remoulding＂ type fabric
出处
《丝绸》
CAS
北大核心
2013年第3期48-52,57,共6页
Journal of Silk
基金
江苏省高校哲学社会科学研究基金项目(2012SJD760031)
关键词
丝绸服装
面料应用
造型
定形
随形
silk costume
fabric application
shape
fixed form
with the form
