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艺术人类学视角下的畲族服饰调查研究 被引量:15

Survey and Research on Costumes of She Nationality from the Perspective of Artistic Anthropology
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摘要 在田野调查的基础上,通过对浙闽地区畲族村寨的走访,分析了当地畲族服饰的现状,描述了畲族服饰的式样和当地独特的彩带编织工艺,在探析现状的基础上对存在的问题进行反思,提出民族服饰是文化濡化和涵化两种力量作用的结果,应通过固态保护和活态传承,实现民族服饰及其手工技艺与经济发展的良性互动。调查研究发现浙闽两地的畲族服饰既存在对盘瓠文化和凤凰崇拜的共同文化基因,也存在地区差异带来的细节差异。畲族的民俗、服饰、民艺等文化遗产的保护研究不仅有利于经济开发和服饰文化保护传承之间的共生和良性互动,而且可以为设计应用提供灵感来源和设计元素。 This paper analyzes the status of local costumes of the She nationality by visiting villages of the She nationality in Zhejiang and Fujian regions based on field investigation;describes styles of costumes of the She nationality and local unique ribbon weaving process;rethinks existing problems based on the exploration of status and puts forward that folk costume is the result of enculturation and acculturation and that positive interaction between folk costumes and their manual skills and economic development through solid protection and dynamic inheritance.The investigation and research find that costumes of the She nationality in Zhejiang and Fujian regions have both common cultural gene of Panhu culture and phoenix worship and detail differences caused by regional differences.The research on protection of cultural heritages such as folk custom,costumes and folk art of the She nationality is not only conducive to intergrowth and positive interaction between economic development and costume culture protection and inheritance,but also can provide inspiration source and design elements for design application.
作者 陈敬玉
出处 《丝绸》 CAS 北大核心 2013年第2期63-67,共5页 Journal of Silk
基金 浙江省提升地方高校办学水平专项(XK1115-003-S) 杭州市哲学社会科学规划课题(D11WH23)
关键词 畲族服饰 艺术人类学 浙闽地区 costumes of the She nationality artistic anthropology Zhejiang and Fujian regions
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