摘要
全毛单面华达呢是一类传统的高档毛纺织产品。为开发其薄型产品,须采用14.8×2tex紧密纺精梳毛纱织制。文章系统探讨了全毛单面薄型华达呢的产品设计、主要织造工序的生产工艺与技术措施,得出以下结论:高档薄型全毛华达呢制品生产时,络筒前须对毛经纱蒸纱定捻,络筒时采用"低速度、轻张力、小伸长、保弹力"的工艺;整经时,宜采用"中张力、低速度、小伸长、保弹性"的工艺,倒轴前须给毛经纱上聚丙烯酰胺乳化液;织造时应以"大张力、中速度、大开口、迟开口、低后梁"为原则,采用反织法进行生产,这样才能保证产品质量与风格。
Pure wool single-side gabardine is a traditional high-quality wool fabric.In order to develop a lightweighted product,it is necessary to use 14.8 × 2tex compact-spun worsted yarn.The paper discusses the product design and key technologies of weaving process for developing such a product and makes the following recommendations:steaming and twist setting of wool warp is necessary before the winding process and the winding process should be carried out in the principle of 'low speed,low tension,low elongation and moderate elasticity';the warping process should be carried out in the principle of 'medium tension,low speed,low elongation and moderate elasticity';polyacrylate emulsion should be applied to the warp before beaming;reverse weaving method will be adopted and the fabric will be woven in the principle of 'high tension,medium speed,big shedding,delayed shedding and low back rail',thus ensuring product quality and look.
出处
《纺织导报》
CAS
北大核心
2012年第6期124-126,共3页
China Textile Leader
