An efficient numerical model for wave refraction, diffraction and reflection is presented in this paper. In the model the modified time-dependent mild-slope equation is transformed into an evolution equation and an im...An efficient numerical model for wave refraction, diffraction and reflection is presented in this paper. In the model the modified time-dependent mild-slope equation is transformed into an evolution equation and an improved ADI method involving a relaxation factor is adopted to solve it. The method has the advantage of improving the numerical stability and convergence rate by properly determining the relaxation factor. The range of the relaxation factor making the differential scheme unconditionally stable is determined by stability analysis. Several verifications are performed to examine the accuracy of the present model. The numerical results coincide with the analytic solutions or experimental data very well and the computer time is reduced.展开更多
A numerical model, Evolution Equation of Mild-Slope Equation （EEMSE） developed by Hsu et al. （2003）, was applied to study the Bragg reflection of water waves over a series of rectangular seabed. Three key paramete...A numerical model, Evolution Equation of Mild-Slope Equation （EEMSE） developed by Hsu et al. （2003）, was applied to study the Bragg reflection of water waves over a series of rectangular seabed. Three key parameters of the Bragg reflection including the peak coefficient of primary Bragg reflection, its corresponding relative wavelength, and the bandwidth, have shown to be effective in describing the characteristics of the primary Bragg reflection. The characteristics of the Bragg reflection were investigated under the various conditions comprising number, height, and spacing interval of a series of rectangular seabed. The results reveal that the peak of Bragg reflection increases with the increase of rectangular seabed height and number, the bandwidth and the shift value of the Bragg reflection depend on the increase of the rectangular seabed height as well as the decrease of rectangular seabed number, and the relative rectangular seabed spacing in the rang of 3 and 4 could produce higher Bragg reflection. Finally, a correlative and regressive analysis is performed by use of the calculated data. Based on the results of the analysis, empirical equations were established. Our study results can provide an appropriate choice of a series of rectangular seabed field for a practical design.展开更多
A time-dependent mild-slope equation for the extension of the classic mild-slope equation of Berkhoff is developed for the interactions of large ambient currents and waves propagating over an uneven bottom, using a Ha...A time-dependent mild-slope equation for the extension of the classic mild-slope equation of Berkhoff is developed for the interactions of large ambient currents and waves propagating over an uneven bottom, using a Hamiltonian formulation for irrotational motions. The bottom topography consists of two components the slowly varying component which satisfies the mild-slope approximation, and the fast varying component with wavelengths on the order of the surface wavelength but amplitudes which scale as a small parameter describing the mild-slope condition. The theory is more widely applicable and contains as special cases the following famous mild-slope type equations: the classical mild-Slope equation, Kirby's extended mild-slope equation with current, and Dingemans's mild-slope equation for rippled bed. Finally, good agreement between the classic experimental data concerning Bragg reflection and the present numerical results is observed.展开更多
The present work analyzes the interaction of oblique waves by a porous flexible breakwater in the presence of a step-type bottom.The physical models for both scattering and trapping cases are considered and developed ...The present work analyzes the interaction of oblique waves by a porous flexible breakwater in the presence of a step-type bottom.The physical models for both scattering and trapping cases are considered and developed within the framework of small amplitude water-wave theory.Darcy’s law is used to model the wave interaction with the porous medium.It is assumed that the varying bottom extends over a finite interval,connected by a finite length of uniform bottom near an impermeable wall,and a semi-infinite length of bottom in the open water region.The boundary value problem is solved using the eigenfunction expansion method in the uniform bottom regions,while a modified mild-slope equation(MMSE)is used for the region with the varying bottom.Additionally,a mass-conserving jump condition is employed to handle the solution at slope discontinuities in the bottom.A system of equations is derived by matching the solutions at interfaces.The reflection coefficient and force on the breakwater and impermeable wall are plotted and analyzed for various parameters,such as the length of the varying bottom,depth ratio,angle of incidence,and flexural rigidity.It is observed that moderate values of flexural rigidity and depth ratio significantly contribute to an optimum reflection coefficient and reduce the wave force on the wall and breakwater.Remarkably,the outcomes of this study are assumed to be applicable in the construction of this type of breakwater in coastal regions.展开更多
The mild-slope equation is familiar to coastal engineers as it can effectively describe wave propagation in nearshore regions. However, its computational method in Cartesian coordinates often renders the model inaccur...The mild-slope equation is familiar to coastal engineers as it can effectively describe wave propagation in nearshore regions. However, its computational method in Cartesian coordinates often renders the model inaccurate in areas with irregular shorelines, such as estuaries and harbors. Based on the hyperbolic mild-slope equation in Cartesian coordinates, the numerical model in orthogonal curvilinear coordinates is developed. The transformed model is discretized by the finite difference method and solved by the ADI method with space-staggered grids. The numerical predictions in curvilinear co- ordinates show good agreemenl with the data obtained in three typical physical expedments, which demonstrates that the present model can be used to simulate wave propagation, for normal incidence and oblique incidence, in domains with complicated topography and boundary conditions.展开更多
The purpose of this paper is to extend the validity of Li's parabolic model (1994) by incorporating a combined energy factor in the mild-slope equation and by improving the traditional radiation boundary condition...The purpose of this paper is to extend the validity of Li's parabolic model (1994) by incorporating a combined energy factor in the mild-slope equation and by improving the traditional radiation boundary conditions. With wave breaking and energy dissipation expressed in a direct form in the equation, the proposed model could provide an efficient numerical scheme and accurate predictions of wave transformation across the surf zone. The radiation boundary conditions are iterated in the model without use of approximations. The numerical predictions for wave height distributions across the surf zone are compared with experimental data over typical beach profiles. In addition, tests of waves scattering around a circular pile show that the proposed model could also provide reasonable improvement on the radiation boundary conditions for large incident angles of waves.展开更多
文摘An efficient numerical model for wave refraction, diffraction and reflection is presented in this paper. In the model the modified time-dependent mild-slope equation is transformed into an evolution equation and an improved ADI method involving a relaxation factor is adopted to solve it. The method has the advantage of improving the numerical stability and convergence rate by properly determining the relaxation factor. The range of the relaxation factor making the differential scheme unconditionally stable is determined by stability analysis. Several verifications are performed to examine the accuracy of the present model. The numerical results coincide with the analytic solutions or experimental data very well and the computer time is reduced.
基金This researchis supported by the Science Council of Taiwan (Grant No. NSC94-2611-E-172-001)
文摘A numerical model, Evolution Equation of Mild-Slope Equation （EEMSE） developed by Hsu et al. （2003）, was applied to study the Bragg reflection of water waves over a series of rectangular seabed. Three key parameters of the Bragg reflection including the peak coefficient of primary Bragg reflection, its corresponding relative wavelength, and the bandwidth, have shown to be effective in describing the characteristics of the primary Bragg reflection. The characteristics of the Bragg reflection were investigated under the various conditions comprising number, height, and spacing interval of a series of rectangular seabed. The results reveal that the peak of Bragg reflection increases with the increase of rectangular seabed height and number, the bandwidth and the shift value of the Bragg reflection depend on the increase of the rectangular seabed height as well as the decrease of rectangular seabed number, and the relative rectangular seabed spacing in the rang of 3 and 4 could produce higher Bragg reflection. Finally, a correlative and regressive analysis is performed by use of the calculated data. Based on the results of the analysis, empirical equations were established. Our study results can provide an appropriate choice of a series of rectangular seabed field for a practical design.
基金This project was supported by the National Outstanding Youth Science Foundation of China under contract! No. 49825161.
文摘A time-dependent mild-slope equation for the extension of the classic mild-slope equation of Berkhoff is developed for the interactions of large ambient currents and waves propagating over an uneven bottom, using a Hamiltonian formulation for irrotational motions. The bottom topography consists of two components the slowly varying component which satisfies the mild-slope approximation, and the fast varying component with wavelengths on the order of the surface wavelength but amplitudes which scale as a small parameter describing the mild-slope condition. The theory is more widely applicable and contains as special cases the following famous mild-slope type equations: the classical mild-Slope equation, Kirby's extended mild-slope equation with current, and Dingemans's mild-slope equation for rippled bed. Finally, good agreement between the classic experimental data concerning Bragg reflection and the present numerical results is observed.
文摘The present work analyzes the interaction of oblique waves by a porous flexible breakwater in the presence of a step-type bottom.The physical models for both scattering and trapping cases are considered and developed within the framework of small amplitude water-wave theory.Darcy’s law is used to model the wave interaction with the porous medium.It is assumed that the varying bottom extends over a finite interval,connected by a finite length of uniform bottom near an impermeable wall,and a semi-infinite length of bottom in the open water region.The boundary value problem is solved using the eigenfunction expansion method in the uniform bottom regions,while a modified mild-slope equation(MMSE)is used for the region with the varying bottom.Additionally,a mass-conserving jump condition is employed to handle the solution at slope discontinuities in the bottom.A system of equations is derived by matching the solutions at interfaces.The reflection coefficient and force on the breakwater and impermeable wall are plotted and analyzed for various parameters,such as the length of the varying bottom,depth ratio,angle of incidence,and flexural rigidity.It is observed that moderate values of flexural rigidity and depth ratio significantly contribute to an optimum reflection coefficient and reduce the wave force on the wall and breakwater.Remarkably,the outcomes of this study are assumed to be applicable in the construction of this type of breakwater in coastal regions.
基金supported by the National Basic Research Program of China ( Grant No.2006CB403302)the National Natural Science Foundation of China (Grant Nos .50839001 and 50709004)the Scientific Research Foundation of the Higher Education Institutions of Liaoning Province (Grant No.2006T018)
文摘The mild-slope equation is familiar to coastal engineers as it can effectively describe wave propagation in nearshore regions. However, its computational method in Cartesian coordinates often renders the model inaccurate in areas with irregular shorelines, such as estuaries and harbors. Based on the hyperbolic mild-slope equation in Cartesian coordinates, the numerical model in orthogonal curvilinear coordinates is developed. The transformed model is discretized by the finite difference method and solved by the ADI method with space-staggered grids. The numerical predictions in curvilinear co- ordinates show good agreemenl with the data obtained in three typical physical expedments, which demonstrates that the present model can be used to simulate wave propagation, for normal incidence and oblique incidence, in domains with complicated topography and boundary conditions.
基金This research is supported by the National Science Council of Taiwan under the grant of NSC 86-2611-E-006-019.
文摘The purpose of this paper is to extend the validity of Li's parabolic model (1994) by incorporating a combined energy factor in the mild-slope equation and by improving the traditional radiation boundary conditions. With wave breaking and energy dissipation expressed in a direct form in the equation, the proposed model could provide an efficient numerical scheme and accurate predictions of wave transformation across the surf zone. The radiation boundary conditions are iterated in the model without use of approximations. The numerical predictions for wave height distributions across the surf zone are compared with experimental data over typical beach profiles. In addition, tests of waves scattering around a circular pile show that the proposed model could also provide reasonable improvement on the radiation boundary conditions for large incident angles of waves.
