摘要
"袴褶"是出现于魏晋时期的一个专有服饰名词,关于它的读音和具体内涵,当今学界时常还会出现分歧。笔者以为,"袴褶"是和"上衣下裳"之制相对应的另外一种服制,即"上衣下裤"的着装方式。袴,音裤,包括大口裤、小口裤、短裤、胫衣等。褶,音袭,原本是指左衽上衣,后通指左、右衽上衣,其下襟有长有短,短的在臀部上下,长的至膝盖上下,但核心是小腿裤管明显暴露在衣襟之外,以利于行动。魏晋南北朝时期,此种服制主要是戎装和下层百姓的常服(部分为朝服),目的是为了方便行军格斗和日常劳作等。偶有中上层人士在日常生活中穿着,则必有某些特殊的缘由。
Ku Xi, as a fashion term, was emerged in the Wei and Jing Dynasty. There are divergent views about its pronunciation and definition in current academic circles. The author believes that Ku Die shares the same way of dressing with Shang Yi Xia Ku, which means top dresses match with trousers. The different types of Ku and Xi were used as military dress, daily dress of common people and court dress sometimes. Middle- and upper-class people were occasionally in Ku Die due to some special rea-sons.
出处
《艺术设计研究》
CSSCI
2015年第3期26-30,共5页
Art & Design Research
关键词
袴
褶
袴褶
戎装
常服
Ku
Xi
Ku Xi
Military Dress
Daily Dress
