摘要
《后汉书·舆服志》中记载的“长冠”是两汉时期的典型冠制,又有“刘氏冠”“鹊尾冠”“斋冠”等诸多称谓,属楚冠制。考古发现证实,秦汉初期除了楚式的长冠外,在秦汉中央辖区还广泛流行着很多类似形制的冠制,为便于区分,可统称为“长冠类冠制”。与进贤冠和武弁大冠的普及性特点不同,长冠因与汉高祖刘邦的特殊渊源在两汉时期的服饰发展脉络中呈现明显的阶梯递进式发展。通过高帝八年(前199年)和明帝永平二年(59年)的两次服制改革,长冠实现了两次跨越式提升,即从士庶常冠升级为朝冠,再升级为祭服之礼冠。汉代长冠由“常”入“礼”的递进式发展模式,是中国古代服饰发展进程中一个非常普遍又值得深思的历史现象,它反映出汉代甚至整个中国古代服饰发展史中的一般性规律,即祭服体系中的慕古和法古之制。作为汉代长冠,其不同寻常的发展轨迹是政治需要选择的结果,汉代长冠的礼制化进程正是对中国古代服饰尤其是祭服作为政治统治工具的深刻诠释。
The chang guan(long headgear)recorded in the Carriage and Clothing Treaties of the Book of the Later Han is a unique style under a capping ceremony called Guanzhi.It is also known as the"Liu family guan,""magpie tail guan,"etc.,that belongs to the Chu state capping system.Archaeological discoveries have confirmed that in the early Qin and Han dynasties,various capping systems of similar shapes were also popular in the centralized area in addition to the Chu style.It can be collectively referred to as the chang guan capping system to understand the differentiation.Unlike the popularity of the jinxian guan and the wubian daguan,the chang guan shows a clear step-by-step development in Chinese costume history due to its connection with the emperor Gaozu of the Han dynasty.Through the two reforms of the Chinese costumes,namely one in 199 BCE and one in 59 BC,chang guan received two upgrades of the symbol of identity.It was upgraded from a common official headgear to a court headgear,and then to a sacrificial headgear.The progressive development pattern of chang guan in the Han dynasty from the ordinary level to the ritual level is a common and provoking historical phenomenon in the course of ancient Chinese costume history.It reflects the general rules in the Han dynasty,even in the entire ancient Chinese costume history,such that each dynasty consciously imitated and borrowed certain elements from the ancient costumes when setting its regulations on sacrificial attire.As the chang guan of the Han dynasty,its unusual development was the result of the political needs.The ritual process of the chang guan was a profound interpretation of the ancient Chinese costumes,especially the sacrificial clothing,as a toolof political rule.
出处
《中国国家博物馆馆刊》
CSSCI
北大核心
2024年第9期119-128,共10页
Journal of National Museum of China
关键词
长冠
礼制化
服饰制度
chang guan
ritualization process
costume rules
