摘要
21世纪初在中国兴起的汉服运动,是中国服饰领域截至目前所发生的规模最大、持续时间最长的实践性社会文化活动,现在它已经取得了初步的成功,并对当代中国的社会及文化产生了深远的影响。文章对汉服运动的基本理念和流派进行归纳,并以此为基础,进一步探讨汉服运动在当代中国究竟取得了哪些成功,它对中国社会及文化产生了哪些影响,汉服运动发展到当下又有哪些新的动态和问题,以及它在将来可能会是一个怎样的发展走向等问题。研究认为,汉服运动未来的最大贡献,将是融入正在形成之中的“新中式生活方式”,且成为其重要的组成部分。
Since the beginning of the 21 st century,Chinese society has embarked on a comprehensive cultural renaissance.Alongside the burgeoning movement for the protection of China’s large-scale intangible cultural heritage,there has also been a revival of the Hanfu Movement aimed at reviving traditional Han clothing and reconstructing the national attire of the Chinese people.The Hanfu Movement,which has lasted for more than 20 years,has not only had a profound impact on the field of apparel industry but also on the clothing lives of the general public.The article aims to summarize the basic concepts and schools of thought within the Hanfu Movement,and based on this,to further inquire into the achievements of the Hanfu Movement in contemporary China,its new dynamics,the challenges it faces,and the potential future development trends.This article is based on the author’s continuous observation of the Hanfu Movement for more than a decade.The research methods include necessary literature research,participatory observational field surveys at Hanfu events,in-depth interviews with core members of Hanfu societies and elite figures in the Hanfu Movement,as well as academic dialogues with experts and scholars in the field of apparel studies.The article concludes that a unique national attire concept and several different schools of thought have emerged within the Hanfu Movement,including the ceremonial attire theory,everyday attire theory,and reformist theory.Despite the internal disagreements within the Hanfu Movement,preliminary success has been achieved through the continuous efforts of Hanfu enthusiasts.This judgment is based on the increasing popularity of Hanfu as“the traditional attire of the Han ethnic group”in contemporary Chinese society and its widespread recognition.Additionally,certain values of the Hanfu Movement have been accepted and acknowledged by mainstream Chinese culture.However,the Hanfu Movement still faces some challenges,including the lack of consensus on the basic form of Hanfu,the difficulty in
作者
周星
ZHOU Xing(Graduate School of History&Folklore Studies,Kanagawa University,Yokohama 221-8686,Japan)
出处
《丝绸》
CAS
CSCD
北大核心
2024年第9期1-11,共11页
Journal of Silk
关键词
汉服
汉服运动
服饰生活
新中式
生活方式
Hanfu
the Hanfu Movement
dress life
new Chinese style
lifestyle
