摘要
The silk fabrics were matching dyed with three natural edible pigments(red rice red,ginger yellow and gardenia blue).By investigating the dyeing rates and lifting properties of these pigments,it was observed that their compatibilities were excellent in the dyeing process:dye dosage 2.5%(omf),mordant alum dosage 2.0%(omf),dyeing temperature 80℃and dyeing time 40 min.The silk fabrics dyed with secondary colors exhibited vibrant and vivid color owing to the remarkable lightness and chroma of ginger yellow.However,gardenia blue exhibited multiple absorption peaks in the visible light range,resulting in significantly lower lightness and chroma for the silk fabrics dyed with tertiary colors,thus making it suitable only for matte-colored fabrics with low chroma levels.In addition,the silk fabrics dyed with these three pigments had a color fastness that exceeded grade 3 in resistance to perspiration,soap washing and light exposure,indicating acceptable wearing properties.The dyeing process described in this research exhibited a wide range of potential applications in matching dyeing of protein-based textiles with natural colorants.
该研究选用三种天然食用色素(红米红、姜黄和栀子蓝)拼色染色丝织物。通过三种色素的上染速率与提升率研究发现,在色素用量为2.5%(omf),媒染剂明矾用量为2.0%(omf),染色温度为80℃,染色时间为40 min的条件下,三种色素的配伍性良好。由于姜黄色素的亮度与饱和度较高,因此二次色染色丝织物可呈现鲜艳且明亮的颜色。由于栀子蓝在可见光范围内具有多处吸收峰,导致三次色染色丝织物的亮度和饱和度较二次色明显降低,只能适用于低饱和度的哑光色织物。三次色染色丝织物的耐汗渍、皂洗和耐光牢度均大于3级,表明通过上述三种色素染色的丝织物具有良好的色牢度。该染色工艺在天然色素拼色染色蛋白质类纺织品方面具有广阔的应用前景。
基金
Fujian External Cooperation Project of Natural Science Foundation,China(No.2022I0042)。
