摘要
西南地区民族服饰上的许多纹样组合方方正正,以模件化的方式排列,并围绕着特定角度(45度与90度)进行变化。这类纹样使用已久,族中妇女根据传承下来的程序进行制作,并加入创新。见方纹样与古时人们立杆测影得出的方位投影十分相似,以视觉化呈现向后人传达古老的时空观,如今虽已不能肯定地发掘其背后的深意,人们却仍可以从这些布片中看出制衣者是如何理解空间,以及如何对复合纹样与正负形进行处理的。
Many pattern combinations on ethnic costumes in Southwest China appears in a very neat and square way.They are arranged in a modular manner,and changed according to the angle(45 degrees and 90 degrees).This type of pattern has been used for a long time,and women of ethnic minorities inherited it and added innovation.The square pattern is very similar to the azimuthal projections obtained by people in ancient times using a pole to measure shadows,and it conveys the ancient view of time and space to future generations through visual presentation.Although it is no longer possible to define the deep meaning behind it,we are able to learn from these pieces of cloth on how women who make clothes understand space and how they process composite patterns and positive/negative space.
作者
杭大川
HANG Dachuan(School of Communication,Royal College of Art,London,SW114NL,England)
出处
《东华大学学报（社会科学版）》
2024年第2期73-81,共9页
Journal of Donghua University:Social Science
基金
市属高校分类发展—北京服装学院“服装学”新兴交叉学科平台建设项目(项目编号:11000024T000003073871)。
关键词
见方
传统纹样
中国西南民族服饰
时空观
square
traditional patterns
ethnic costumes in Southwest China
view of time and space
