摘要
采用文献研究、图像解析、实物分析与归纳对比法,对近代外销服饰中对襟女褂形制与结构的差异进行研究,通过梳理广州博物馆馆藏中部分外销对襟女褂,从中选取3件有代表性的女褂实物作为研究样本,分析其款式廓形和裁剪结构,并对女褂不同部位进行对比,总结女褂各部位形制与结构差异。研究表明:女褂样本的形制差异体现在里襟的有与无,下摆的直与阔,袖身的扩与顺;结构上的差异体现在肩线的平与顺,袖缝线的近与远。外销女褂形制结构上的变化与差异印证了中国传统服装形制的改良及西化过程,对其研究有助于对未来传统服饰的改良与创新提供新思路。
The article employs methods such as literature research,image analysis,physical analysis and inductive comparison to investigate the differences in the shape and structure of women's coats within modern exported costumes.The paper combs some women's coats from the Guangzhou Museum,selecting three representative ones as research samples.It analyzes the outline shape and structure,comparing different parts of the women's coats to summarize the differences in shape and structure for each component.The research shows that the shape differences among the three types of women's coats manifest in the presence or absence of the clothing placket,the straightness and expansion of the hem,and the outward expansion and straightness of sleeve shape.The structural differences are reflected in the straightness and bending of the shoulder line,and the nearness and farness of the sleeve seam line.The changes and differences in the shape and structure of exported women's coats demonstrate the improvement and westernization process of traditional Chinese clothing.Studying them can provide new ideas for enhancing and innovating future traditional clothing.
作者
付爽
牛犁
崔荣荣
FU Shuang;NIU Li;CUI Rongrong(School of Design,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China;School of Fashion Design and Engineering,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China)
出处
《服装学报》
CAS
2023年第6期554-561,共8页
Journal of Clothing Research
基金
教育部哲学社会科学研究重大课题攻关项目(21JZD048)。
关键词
对襟女褂
外销服饰
结构
形制
廓形
women's coats
export clothing
structure
shape
outline shape
