摘要
蓝染是一种传统工艺,适用于不同社会阶层与各种纤维染色,也是世界许多民族的重要文化表现形式。蓼蓝、木蓝、菘蓝、马蓝(板蓝)是其常用染材,而别名吴蓝、苋蓝则为此四类所涵括。植物虽有差别,却皆含有靛苷成分,故可以直接染色法、水煮染色法、发酵还原染色法等,将靛蓝附着在织物纤维上。千百年来,人们就地取材不断积累经验,更是在融入社会生活、习俗与政治、经济因素的同时,通过广泛地交流形成独具特色的蓝染文化圈。
“Indigo dyeing”originally referred to dying with bluegrass which is a traditional process with a long history and a wide range of applications.There are multiple names for bluegrass in China’s ancient literature.Among them,some are the same kind of indigo under different names,while some,though bearing the same names,are actually not the same kind of bluegrass,so it is necessary to sort them out for further study.Studies have shown that the Wu indigo and Xian indigo recorded in the literature are actually the ovate sharp leaf Polygonum tinctorium Ait with red flowers and white flowers.The latter two species of Polygonum tinctorium Ait were transplanted from Indochina Peninsula to China after the Song Dynasty.Polygonum tinctorium Ait native to China is an oval broad-leaved plant.In addition to Polygonum tinctorium Ait,Indigofera tinctoria Linn,Isatis indigotica Fortune,and Baphicacanthus cusia(Nees)Bremek are also commonly used as bluegrass.Among them,Indigofera tinctoria Linn is divided into Indian one and South American one,and Isatis indigotica Fortune is divided into Chinese one and European one.Although the species and morphological characteristics of these bluegrass plants are different,the indirubin components contained in them can be used for dyeing.According to different blue dyeing processes,the dyeing methods can be divided into direct dyeing,boiling dyeing and fermentation reduction dyeing.Relatively speaking,the fermentation reduction dyeing method is more complicated,but it is the most suitable from the perspective of dyeing effect and mass production.From the point of view of the difficulty of blue dyeing,the direct dyeing method is the most primitive dyeing method and the earliest dyeing process,which has the possibility of origin from all over the world.The boiling dyeing method and fermentation reduction dyeing method may have been invented in response to the production constraints of direct dyeing,and they probably originated in India and then spread to the Mediterranean countries through
作者
郑巨欣
ZHENG Juxin(School of Crafts,China Academy of Art,Hangzhou 310002,China)
出处
《丝绸》
CAS
CSCD
北大核心
2024年第1期109-119,共11页
Journal of Silk
基金
国家社会科学基金冷门绝学研究项目(22VJXT004)。
关键词
蓝草
传统染色
染织工艺史
染色方法
蓝染文化圈
bluegrass
traditional dyeing
history of dyeing and weaving technology
dyeing method
indigo dying culture circle
