摘要
基于西南民族地区的田野考察,本文结合现有文献和研究成果,从中国腰机的历史出发,以民族学调查为视野,分析了腰机的种类、加工原料、规格尺寸、织造工艺及特殊结构,探讨了由原始腰机向其他机型的演变流程。研究表明,织机的规格尺寸、织造场地、织造技术、织造原料、织者习惯及生产需求等都将成为影响腰机织造结果的重要因素,同时也是促使腰机向其他机型演变原因的线索与佐证,这是中国织机由简单至复杂、单一至多样的最直观表现和最早期发展。本文结论或为中国传统纺织机具的研究和纺织类非物质文化遗产的传承与保护提供实证参考。
The primitive waist loom,as one of the most primitive weaving tools in China,is still widely used in the southwest ethnic areas of China,with the characteristics of simple structure,and ease of making and moving.The emergence of waist looms makes China’s ancient weaving technology separate and develop from weaving technology to become an independent technical craft,which is of great significance in the history of Chinese textile science and technology.Based on the our fieldwork in Southwest China ethnic areas,we combined the existing literature and research results,started from the history of Chinese waist looms,and argued that China’s primitive waist loom was the first one used in China’s Neolithic textile technology and one of the most important achievements in China’s Neolithic textile technology from the casts of textile scenes on the stone loom knives unearthed from the Cishan Culture Site in Hebei,the wooden or bone loom knives unearthed from Yuyao Hemudu Culture Site in Zhejiang,and the Han Dynasty bronze shell storage vessels unearthed from Shizhai Mountain in Jinning,Yunnan,and No.69 tomb of Lijiashan in Jiangchuan,Yunnan.By conducting ethnographic survey,we thoroughly analyzed the types,processing materials,specifications,weaving techniques,special structures,and evolutionary processes of waist looms,drawing two major conclusions.First,in the ethnic areas of southwest China,many ethnic groups have also mastered the more efficient organic frame loom textile technology,but due to the characteristics of the waist loom’s simple shape,easy portability,wide applicability and ease of operation,the minorities and ethnic groups still maintain the waist loom weaving tradition.The existing types of waist looms include the original waist loom,the advanced version of original waist looms,and the hanging waist loom.Southwest ethnic minorities usually use the waist loom to weave cotton,linen,silk,wool,as well as the fireweed fabrics.Southwest ethnic area waist loom specifications vary greatly in size,and acc
作者
刘一萍
邓越
卢明
LIU Yiping;DENG Yue;LU Ming(College of Sericulture,Textile and Biomass Sciences,Southwest University,Chongqing 400715,China)
出处
《丝绸》
CAS
CSCD
北大核心
2023年第11期136-145,共10页
Journal of Silk
基金
国家社会科学基金项目(23XMZ058)
西南大学研究生科研创新项目(SWUS23115)。
关键词
西南民族地区
腰机
地织机
半框架腰机
卧机
传统纺织机具
ethnic areas of southwest China
waist looms
ground looms
semi-frame waist looms
horizontal looms
traditional textile implements
