摘要
以淡竹叶提取物(LG)为研究对象,分别从功效、安全2个维度进行评价,提升其在化妆品领域的应用前景。采用鸡胚绒毛尿囊膜试验(HET-CAM)和人体斑贴试验对LG进行眼刺激和皮肤刺激的安全性评价。通过瞬时电位受体香草酸亚型1(TRPV1)高表达细胞模型,考察LG对伤害性细胞因子白介素8(IL-8)和单核细胞趋化因子(MCP-1)表达量的影响。分别选用十二烷基硫酸钠(SDS)、乳酸和辣椒素作为刺激物,建立敏感性皮肤的刺激模型,采用主观自觉症状评分、客观仪器分析,评估LG缓解皮肤敏感的能力。HET-CAM和人体斑贴试验结果显示,LG具有良好的眼睛安全性和皮肤安全性。体外细胞模型中,LG可剂量依赖性地降低HaCaT-TRPV1-OE细胞中IL-8、MCP-1的表达。在人体功效评价中,LG可以显著降低SDS引起的经表皮水分流失率(TEWL值)和皮肤红斑指数(EI值)上升(p<0.05),即时缓解由乳酸刺激引起的皮肤刺痛感,显著减轻辣椒素刺激引起的皮肤不适感和泛红状态,表明LG可加速修复受损皮肤,提升敏感性皮肤的屏障功能(p<0.05)。LG作为一种植物来源的活性原料,具有高效、强效、安全的特点,可广泛应用于护肤品开发中。
Lophatherum gracile extract(LG)was taken as the research object,and its efficacy and safety were evaluated,aiming to enhance its application prospect in the field of cosmetics.Eye irritation and skin irritation were evaluated by HET-CAM test and human patch test.Through the cell model in which the transient receptor potential vanilloid subtype 1(TRPV1)was highly expressed,the influences on the expression of interleukin 8(IL-8)and monocyte chemotactic protein-1(MCP-1)were measured.Skin stimulation models for sensitive skin were established using sodium dodecyl sulfate(SDS),lactic acid and capsaicin as irritants.These models were used to determine the ability of LG to relieve skin sensitivity.HET-CAM test and human patch test show that LG has good safety to eyes and skin.In the cell model with over-expression of TRPV1,LG can reduce the expression of IL-8 and MCP-1 in a dose-dependent manner.In human evaluation,LG can significantly reduce the transepidermal water loss rate(TEWL)and skin erythema index(EI)caused by SDS(p<0.05),instantly alleviate the skin irritation caused by lactic acid,and significantly reduce the skin discomfort and redness caused by capsaicin,indicating that LG can accelerate the repair of damaged skin and enhance the barrier function of sensitive skin(p<0.05).Therefore,as an active raw material of plant origin,LG has the characteristics of high efficiency,strong efficacy and safety,which can be widely used in the development of skin care products.
作者
周秋娜
李婷婷
杨萌
周春亚
金荣熙
ZHOU Qiu-na;LI Ting-ting;YANG Meng;ZHOU Chun-ya;KIM Young-heuil(Cosmax China,inc.,Shanghai 201401,China;Cosmax Shanghai Testing Technology Co.,Ltd.,Shanghai 201401,China)
出处
《日用化学品科学》
CAS
2023年第9期36-42,共7页
Detergent & Cosmetics
关键词
淡竹叶提取物
敏感性皮肤
安全
Lophatherum gracile extract
sensitive skin
safety
