摘要
文章在对海南省五指山市、保亭黎族苗族自治县和东方市黎族织锦的田野考察基础上,结合相关文献资料,对海南省杞方言区黎族的织锦工艺、织造原理、织造流程、织锦纹样进行分析研究,辅以显花原理图和传统腰织机的结构示意图,将传统腰织机的部件根据功能不同分为3个部分,从织造技术角度对杞方言区的黎锦织造技艺进行深入分析。研究发现:黎族传统织锦使用传统腰织机,主要分为纬线显花和经线显花两种织造技术,其中黎锦纬线显花,根据显花原理,在上下层经线设置不同的提花格。采用“错格”编排,在上机时主要使用“干”字形绕线架配合“U”形夹使用,织造时多采用挑花织造。黎锦经线显花上机操作与纬线显花基本相同,但在保亭地区多采用6根竹签配合“干”字形绕线架在上机时对纹样进行编排,织造出组织统一、纹样风格多变的黎锦纹样。黎族传统织锦的纹样题材丰富,简洁质朴,因其黎族分布支系不同,织造技艺侧重点不同,纹样的构成特征也不尽相同,故结合不同的织造技艺对黎锦纹样进行分析研究。
Li brocade,with its exquisite skills of spinning,dyeing and embroidering,is a representative minority brocade,and has been included in the national intangible cultural heritage list and the UNESCO intangible cultural heritage list respectively,and has received worldwide attention.It is of profound significance to study the weaving techniques and brocade culture of Li brocade.According to the different dialects,the Li ethnic group can be divided into Ha,Qi,Run,Sai,and Meifu dialect areas,and there are rich types of brocade weaving,with different dialect areas focusing on different brocade weaving techniques.Therefore,studying the Li brocade in different dialect areas will not only enrich the study of Li brocade,but also enable the better inheritance and development of Li brocade.To make the study of the weaving techniques and brocade culture of Li brocade more in-depth,we analyzed the diagram structure,process flow and pattern characteristics of Li brocade in the Qi dialect area based on the field investigation of Li brocade in Wuzhishan city and Baoting Li and Miao Autonomous County,Hainan province by combining with relevant literature.Firstly,we classified the Li brocade into warp-patterned brocade and weft-patterned brocade by fieldwork method and literature research method,and sorted out the types of Li brocade weaving according to the division of Li dialect areas.The weft patterning weaving of Li brocade in Qi dialect area is mainly divided into single-sided weaving,double-sided weaving and reverse-sided weaving;the warp patterning weaving is mainly divided into“Tiyang”weaving,warp jacquard weaving and floating jacquard weaving.The weave and process flow were analyzed by combining the modern textile principle and the division of the functional parts of the waist loom of the Li ethnic group.Specifically,as for weft patterning,the“staggered arrangement”technology is employed,and the weave is the weft rib weave with the same opening of the A and B wefts,and the process flow includes the loading operation
作者
苏淼
单旭波
龙博
安薇竹
朱玥
SU Miao;SHAN Xubo;LONG Bo;AN Weizhu;ZHU Yue(College of Textile Science and Engineering,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;World Silk and Silk Road International Research Center,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;China National Silk Museum,Hangzhou 310002,China)
出处
《丝绸》
CAS
CSCD
北大核心
2023年第9期135-144,共10页
Journal of Silk
基金
国家重点研发计划课题项目(2019YFC1521301)
国家社会科学青年基金项目(19CKG023)。
关键词
海南黎锦
非遗传承
原始腰机
黎锦工艺
织锦技艺
黎锦纹样
Hainan Li brocade
inheritance of intangible cultural heritage
original waist loom
Li brocade process
weaving techniques
Li brocade pattern
