摘要
袖窿和袖山是毛衫的重要构成元素,其配伍设计不仅影响毛衫的外形,也是评价毛衫穿着舒适性的重要指标。文章分析了毛衫袖窿和袖山的造型特点和工艺设计方法,根据合体度的不同将毛衫袖窿分为4种形态,并与之匹配4种袖山造型。结合毛衫造型风格和功能性的要求,提出用袖窿深确定袖山高的设计方法。以合体型毛衫为例进行袖窿与袖山的外形配伍,形成一套合体型毛衫袖窿和袖山的工艺计算方法,为毛衫的工艺设计提供了理论依据,具有一定的实践应用价值。
Armhole and sleeve top height are the important elements of sweater.Its compatibility design not only affects the appearance of sweater,but also is an important indicator to evaluate the comfort of sweater.This paper analyzed the modeling characteristics and process design methods of sweater armhole and sleeve top height.According to the different fitting degree,the sweater armhole was divided into four forms and matched with four sleeve top heights.Combined with the requirements of sweater modeling style and functionality,a design method of determining the sleeve top height by armhole depth was proposed.Taking the fiting sweater for example,the armhole must be matched correct sleeve top height at the aspect of shape and modeling,and the method of sweater armhole and sleeve top height calculating method was formed.A theoretical basis was provided for the process planning of sweater,which has a certain practical application value.
作者
于素利
Yu Suli(College of Fashion,Henan Institute of Science and Technology,Xinxiang,Henan 453003,China)
出处
《针织工业》
北大核心
2023年第6期78-81,共4页
Knitting Industries
基金
河南省级大学生创新训练项目(S202110467017)。
关键词
毛衫
袖窿
袖山
收针工艺
配伍设计
Sweater
Armhole
Sleeve Top Height
Narrowing Technology
Matching Design
