摘要
魏晋时期礼法制度的松弛与玄学思想的盛行,为魏晋时期士人的服饰文化提供了一定程度上自由发展的土壤,处于社会文化中心的名士群体,亦常以其放达不羁的举止与个性化装扮,引领着社会风尚与服饰审美。而在服饰与礼仪被视作互为表里的儒家思想中,坚持服饰的个性化与自由化的士人无疑破坏了已成规范的礼制,他们的服饰行为成为了扰乱社会风气甚至亡国的“服妖”,而“服妖”现象的背后,展现的是魏晋士人融反叛与时尚于一体的服饰观念。
Because of the slack of ceremony system and the prevalent metaphysics in Wei Jin Dynasties,the dress culture of literati improved freely,the literati had an important status in the center of society and culture,and they lead to the social tendency and costume aesthetics with the bohemianism of behavior and individual dress.But in the opinion of confucianism,the clothes and rituals had an interaction effect,the literati who insisted the individuation and freedom of dress broken up the ceremony system and to be the Fu Yao phenomenon,which meant perturbing the general mood of society and destroying the country,Fu Yao phenomenon revealed the dress concepts of rebellion and fashion concentratedly.
出处
《时尚设计与工程》
2023年第3期63-64,67,共3页
The Journal of Fashion Design and Engineering
基金
湖北省普通高等学校人文社会科学重点研究基地——时尚艺术研究中心一般项目《魏晋士人的时尚审美研究》(IFA-2022-02)。
关键词
魏晋
士人
服妖
时尚
Wei Jin Dynasties
literati
Fu Yao
fashion
