摘要
晕裥锦是蜀锦中具有典型代表性、应用广泛的一类织锦,其特种晕裥技艺构造了蜀锦独特的艺术效果。蜀锦技艺独具特色,本文为了研究唐宋时期蜀锦晕裥技艺在织锦上的艺术效果,以唐宋晕裥锦为研究对象,采用文献查阅和比较分析的研究方法,从外观风格、晕裥艺术、织造工艺、组织结构、应用范畴方面对两者进行横向比较分析。研究表明,唐晕裥锦是将染色经线通过独特的牵经技艺配置出色彩衔接自然的“彩条晕裥”,色彩绚丽、以斜纹为基础组织,多为服饰和寺庙用锦;宋晕裥锦则是通过锦纹与色光的融合形成色光叠晕的“环圈晕裥”,色彩典雅、以斜纹和缎纹为基础组织,多用于服饰和书画装裱装帧。文章通过比较分析,有助于蜀锦晕裥技艺这一特种工艺的传承和弘扬,同时为现代织物创新设计提供灵感。
The Tang and Song Yunjian brocade is a special type of Shu brocade,which makes use of the unique technique of drawing warps and the fusion of colors and patterns,together with the use of jacquard technique,so the artistic effect is unique.It can be said that Yunjian brocade is one of the most representative types of Shu brocade.We took the Tang and Song Yunjian brocades as the object of study,and used literature review and comparative analysis to conduct a horizontal comparison of the two in terms of appearance,Yunjian art,weaving techniques,organizational structure and application,so as to reveal the main factors affecting the differences between the Tang and Song Yunjian patterns.We believe that the Yunjian brocade of the Tang Dynasty was a unique technique of weaving the dyed warp threads to create a“colorful striped Yunjian”with a natural color transition.It was rich in colour,with red,yellow,green,blue and white as the dominant colors,and orange,blue and brown as intermediate and compound colors.The strips were arranged in moderate widths,evenly spaced and naturally varied,with small patterns such as roundels woven on the ground pattern of Yunjian,forming a Yunjian jacquard brocade.With the basic organization of twill,the Yunjian jacquard brocade was mostly used for costumes and temples.The Song Yunjian brocade was made by fusing the brocade pattern with color and light to form a“ring Yunjian”of color and light.The overall style is stately,with elegant colous.In addition to the common“five main colors”,a large number of gray-green,dark-green,yellow-brown and other intermediate and compound colors were added,so that the overall tone was gray but not stuffy,bright but not garish.The patterns were decorated with small geometric motifs such as tortoise back,connected coins,and chain patterns on the surrounding open space,and the main flowers were set off on the ground motifs,with orderly movement and distinctive layers.The basic organization was twill and satin,being mostly used for costume and paint
作者
王红梅
祖雅妮
苏静
张毅
WANG Hongmei;ZU Yani;SU Jing;ZHANG Yi(School of Design,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,China)
出处
《丝绸》
CAS
CSCD
北大核心
2023年第5期135-142,共8页
Journal of Silk
基金
教育部人文社会科学研究一般项目(21YJA760096)
中国非物质文化遗产传承人群研修研习培训计划项目(文非遗发〔2017〕2号)
江苏省社会科学基金立项一般项目(19WMB040)。
关键词
晕裥技艺
织造工艺
组织结构
晕裥锦
唐宋时期
影响因素
Yunjian technique
weaving technology
organizational structure
Yunjian brocade
Tang and Song Dynasties
influencing factors
