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传统服饰中的门襟演变及其文化内涵研究

RESEARCH ON EVOLUTION AND CULTURAL CONNOTATION OF PLACKET IN TRADITIONAL CLOTHING
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摘要 服饰是社会形态的一种象征,各个朝代的服饰特征都体现了时代的特点。本文从商朝到民国时期的传统服饰中,挑选出具有代表性的门襟结构作为研究对象—包括流传最为广泛的大襟、唐代的绳结式襦裙、宋代合领对襟、明代立领大衫、清代旗装,最后到民国旗袍,通过研究这些服装门襟在选色、印花、用料等方面的变化,梳理了门襟结构的演变,同时分析了不同时代的审美思想和意识形态对服装的影响,希望为我国传统服装的研究提供一定的参考。 Clothing is a symbol of social form, the clothing features of each dynasty reflect the characteristics of the times. This paper selects the representative placket structures of traditional clothing from the Shang Dynasty to the Republic of China as the research object – including the most widely spread large placket, the rope knot Ru skirt of the Tang Dynasty, the closed collar lapel of the Song Dynasty, the standing collar shirt of the Ming Dynasty, the cheongsam of the Qing Dynasty, and the cheongsam of the Republic of China. By studying the changes of these clothing plackets in terms of color selection, printing, materials, and placket structure, the authors analyze the influence of aesthetic thoughts and ideology on the clothing in different times, hoping to provide some reference for the study of traditional Chinese clothing.
出处 《包装与设计》 2023年第1期180-181,共2页 Package & Design
关键词 门襟 文化 社会思想 placket culture social thought
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