摘要
通过对古籍文献、画像石、壁画、出土文物等资料的梳理,结合冠服制度、社会文化、丧葬理念的发展变迁,考证鹖冠的渊源,总结鹖冠在汉唐时期的变化。针对鹖冠的形制样式、使用场合、佩戴群体等方面进行对比与论述,发现其在汉唐之间的变化主要表现在3个方面;装饰从鹖羽形到全鸟形,佩戴从实战场合到礼仪场合,形式从多样化到规范化,所有变化均是为了适应政治军事生活的需要。认为鹖冠纷繁多变的面貌是武学价值与礼仪价值相互影响的结果。
Based on combing the data of ancient literature,stone portraits,murals and unearthed cultural relics,this paper attempts to probe into the origin of heguan and summarizes the heguan’s changes in the Han and Tang Dynasties in combination with the development and changes of the crown system,social culture and funeral concept.This paper mainly makes a comparison and discussion on the form and style,the use situation and wearing group of heguan.And it finds that the changes between the Han and Tang Dynasty are reflected in the aspects from the feather decoration to the whole bird decoration,from the actual combat situation to the etiquette occasion,from the diversification to the standardization and so on.All these changes are in order to meet the need of political and military life.The varied appearance of heguan is the result of the mutual influence of martial arts value and etiquette value.
作者
曹超婵
孔凡栋
CAO Chaochan;KONG Fandong(School of International Education,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China)
出处
《服装学报》
2022年第4期342-348,共7页
Journal of Clothing Research
基金
浙江省哲学社会科学规划课题项目(21NDJC060YB)
浙江理工大学国际时装技术学院资助“‘基于项目’的首饰工艺基础教学改革与实践”项目(2022)。
关键词
武冠
鹖冠
首服
wuguan
heguan
headcloth
