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调研分析:联合国教科文组织UNESCO纺织服饰类非遗名录

Research and analysis:UNESCO intangible heritage list of textile and clothing
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摘要 本文采用文献分析、统计分析等方法,以2008—2021年入选联合国教科文组织非物质文化遗产名录的630项为对象进行调研,整理出42项纺织服饰类非遗项目。通过比较分析发现,亚洲的纺织服饰类非遗项目最多占比60%,其次是欧洲占24%;且以棉麻丝为原材料的纺织技艺最多,其次是以动物毛皮为原材料的编织技艺。其中,花边制作是欧洲纺织类非遗的特色。分析认为:纺织服饰类非遗项目与原生地的自然环境、人们生活生产方式及民族和地域文化有着紧密的联系,调研结果可为纺织服饰类非物质文化遗产保护研究提供参考。 By using the methods of literature analysis and statistical analysis,this paper investigates 630 items selected into the UNESCO intangible cultural heritage list from 2008 to 2021,and sorts out 42 intangible cultural heritage items regarding textile and clothing.Through comparative analysis,it is found that intangible cultural heritage items regarding textile and clothing in Asia account for a proportion of 60%at most,followed by 24%in Europe.In addition,the textile technology using cotton,hemp and silk as raw materials tops the related list,followed by the weaving technology using animal fur as raw materials.Lace making is a feature of European textile intangible cultural heritage.The intangible cultural heritage projects concerning textile and clothing are closely related to the natural environment of the original place,people’s way of life and production,and national and regional culture.The research results provide a reference for the protection of intangible cultural heritage of concerning textile and clothing.
作者 刘芹 LIU Qin(School of Art and Design,Shanghai University of Engineering Science,Shanghai 201620,China;Shanghai Institute of International Design&Innovation,Tongji University,Shanghai 200092,China)
出处 《丝绸》 CAS CSCD 北大核心 2022年第8期153-156,共4页 Journal of Silk
基金 国家民委民族研究项目(2020-GMD-074)。
关键词 联合国教科文组织 纺织服饰类 非物质文化遗产 名录 织染纫绣 调研 UNESCO textile and clothing intangible cultural heritage list weaving,dyeing and embroidery research
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