摘要
通过对江南大学民间服饰传习馆馆藏传统旗袍与改良旗袍的结构复原与分析,以二者的造型比较为切入点,论述了旗袍由直身到曲线的轮廓变化,以及肩袖结构和肩斜度的变化等,指出改良旗袍在传承中国传统文化的同时,又吸纳西方造型元素,是二者融汇的产物。研究表明从传统旗袍到改良旗袍的演变优化了服装的适体性,增强了便利性,体现了中华民族文化兼容并蓄的包容性,也体现了其强大的融汇能力。最终证明对外来文化的吸纳并不是终点,将其融汇并为我所用,同时传承我们优良的传统文化与服装元素,实现服装设计创新才是意义所在。
Through the structural restoration and analysis of the traditional cheongsam and the modified cheongsam in the collection of the Folk Costume Heritage Museum of Jiangnan University,and taking the comparison of their shapes as the starting point,the study discusses the changes in the silhouette of the cheongsam from straight to curved,as well as the changes in the structure of the shoulder sleeves and the slope of the shoulders,pointing out that the modified cheongsam,while inheriting traditional Chinese culture,also incorporates western styling elements and is a product of the fusion of the two.The study shows that the evolution from the traditional cheongsam to the modified cheongsam has optimised the fit and convenience of the garment,reflecting the inclusiveness of Chinese culture and its strong ability to integrate.The study proves that it is not the end of the process of absorbing foreign culture,but rather the integration and use of it,as well as the inheritance of our fine traditional culture and costume elements,to achieve innovation in costume design.
作者
刘伟
张竞琼
LIU Wei;ZHANG Jing-qiong(School of Design,Jiangnan University,Wuxi Jiangsu 214122,China)
出处
《武汉纺织大学学报》
2022年第1期52-57,共6页
Journal of Wuhan Textile University
关键词
旗袍
改良
造型
结构
cheongsam
improvement
shape
structure
