摘要
19世纪末到20世纪初是法国女装设计发生重大转变的时期。19世纪末,女性服饰强调“S”形曲线造型,通过紧身胸衣和束腰展现女性的身体美。随着女性主义的发展,身体解放成为女性追求地位平等的重要途径。20世纪初,女装主要朝着直线型方向发展,开始以舒适自由为主导。一战的到来使女性承担起社会工作和义务,社会地位的提升使女性着装朝着男性化方向发展,服饰上的性别模糊体现了女性对自身地位和价值的再思考,希望从单纯地模仿男性着装风格中脱离出来,创造出属于女性的新着装风格。
From the end of the 19th century to the beginning of the 20th century,French women’s wear design underwent a significant change.At the end of the 19th century,women’s wear emphasized the“S”curve shape and showed the beauty of women’s body through corsets and waistbands.With the development of feminism,the liberation of the body became an important way for women to pursue equality.In the early 20th century,women’s wear mainly developed towards straight lines,and began to be dominated by comfort and freedom.The arrival of World War I made women undertake social work and obligations,and the improvement of social status made women’s wear develop towards masculinity.The gender vagueness in wear reflects women’s rethinking of their own status and value,hoping to break away from simply imitating men’s wear style and create a new wear style belonging to women.
作者
施安然
李正
Shi Anran;Li Zheng(College of Art,Soochow University,Suzhou 215000,China)
关键词
法国女装
女性主义
性别差异及模糊化
French women’s wear
feminism
gender difference and vagueness
