摘要
为了更好地研究潞绸的外观风格,针对潞绸风格描述过于笼统模糊的问题,结合可以查询考证的潞绸实例和文献记载,进行潞绸纹样与服装款式的深入分析。潞绸纹样可分为自然纹样、人文纹样、官职等级纹样3类,且多见植物纹样。以故宫博物院馆藏的3件潞绸织物为例,逐个分析其构成元素与布局特点。可以发现在纹样内涵上都讲究吉祥的寓意;在布局结构上,都富有均衡的美感。再者,以文学作品中的潞绸服装为例,结合明朝服饰形制规范,进行分析解读与款式再现,呈现明朝潞绸服装的艺术风格特征。潞绸服装不仅颜色丰富、款式众多,而且深受男女老少、各个阶层的喜爱。
In order to better study the appearance style of Lu silk,in view of the problem that the description of Lu silk style is too general and vague,the patterns and clothing styles of Lu silk were analyzed in-depth by combining the examples of Lu silk that can be searched and verified with document records.Lu silk patterns can be divided into three types:natural patterns,humanities patterns,and official grade patterns,and plant patterns are more common.The constituent elements and layout characteristics were analyzed one by one by taking three pieces of Lu silk fabrics in the museum's collection as examples.It can be found that in the connotation of the patterns,they pay more attention on the auspicious meaning,meanwhile,full of balanced beauty in the layout structure.Furthermore,the Lu silk clothing in literary works were taken as examples,the Ming dynasty dress form norms were combined with for analysis and interpretation and style reproduction,the artistic style characteristics of the Ming dynasty Lu silk clothing was presented.Lu silk clothing is not only rich in colors and styles,but also loved by men,women,young and old,and all strata.
作者
刘淑强
张洁
吴改红
李甫
张曼
张爱琴
贾潞
LIU Shuqiang;ZHANG Jie;WU Gaihong;LI Fu;ZHANG Man;ZHANG Aiqin;JIA Lu(College of Textile Engineering,Taiyuan University of Technology,Jinzhong,Shanxi 030600,China)
出处
《毛纺科技》
CAS
北大核心
2021年第10期46-53,共8页
Wool Textile Journal
基金
教育部人文社会科学研究青年基金项目(18YJC760051)
山西省高等学校哲学社会科学研究项目(201803060)
山西省哲学社会科学规划课题(202054)。
关键词
潞绸
明代服饰
纹样
款式
Lu silk
Ming dynasty clothing
pattern
style
