摘要
纬编绒类织物是冬季户外运动常用的保暖材料。在保证良好保暖性的前提下,为了获得轻而薄的绒类产品,本文在综合服用性能测试的基础上,探讨了纬编绒类织物保暖性的评判依据、保暖原因等。选取国内代表性的两家公司产品,对不同品类、不同后整理工艺的纬编绒类织物进行了保暖性、透湿性、透气性等服用性能的测试。结果表明:结合克罗值(或热阻)与单位面密度克罗值/单位厚度克罗值指标,比较不同面密度/不同厚度绒类织物的保暖性,评价出暖且轻/薄的产品。在材料、面密度相同的情况下,两家同类产品的保暖性有一定差距,与摇粒、剪绒等加工工艺有关;在材料、面密度、工艺相同或相似的情况下,双面绒比单面绒更轻、更暖。纬编绒类织物的克罗值与其厚度呈显著线性相关,相关系数为0.909;透气率、透湿率与织物面密度呈负相关,相关系数分别为-0.731、-0.741。纬编绒类织物通透性越好,保暖性越好。
Weft knitted plush fabrics is a thermal insulation fabric often used for outdoor sports in winter. In order to obtain light and thin velvet products, wearing property tests of weft knitted plush fabrics with different specifications and different finishing techniques from two typical manufacturers in China were carried out. The tests include the performance of the thermal insulation, water-vapor transmission, air permeability and pilling resistance. Based on the test, the rationale of thermal insulation and the evaluation rules were discussed. The results show that the combination of the CLO value and the CLO value per unit weight or CLO value per unit thickness can be used to compare the thermal insulation of plush fabrics with different weights and thicknesses and to pick out the warmer and lighter or thinner velvet products. The thermal insulation difference between two products of the same kind produced by two manufacturers with the same material is caused by the pilling, brushing and cutting process. When the products are same in material, weight and manufactured process, double-sided fleece is lighter and warmer than single-sided fleece. Moreover, the CLO value of weft knitted plush fabrics is significantly and linearly related to its thickness, with a correlation coefficient of 0.909. The performances of water-vapor transmission and air permeability are negatively related to its weight, with a correlation coefficient of-0.731 and-0.741 respectively. For weft knitted plush fabrics, the more fluffy the fabric structure, the more warm the knitted fleeces.
作者
李秋宇
陈欣
王越平
常萌程
李嘉欣
LI Qiu-yu;CHEN Xin;WANG Yue-ping;CHANG Meng-cheng;LI Jia-xin(School of Materials Design&Engineering,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029,China)
出处
《北京服装学院学报（自然科学版）》
CAS
北大核心
2021年第2期7-12,共6页
Journal of Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology：Natural Science Edition
基金
北京市科技计划重点项目(Z181100005918005)。
关键词
纬编绒类织物
服用性能
保暖性能
测试与评价
单面绒
双面绒
weft knitted plush fabrics
wearing property
thermal insulation
test and evaluation
knitted velvet
knitted fleece
