摘要
为了探寻贵州民间草木染绿发展与染色技艺,文章以冻绿为试验材料探寻其在不同条件下的染色效果。通过实地调研、查阅文献资料等研究方法梳理传统与贵州民间草木染绿的起源发展,采用染色试验法展示草木染绿的色彩效果,在此基础上分析贵州民间草木染绿技艺的特点。研究得出:冻绿不同部位、不同新鲜程度染色效果不同,新鲜有果实的冻绿可直接染绿,新鲜无果实的冻绿色彩偏黄,晒干无果实冻绿色彩纯度低,用绿矾作媒染剂对新鲜与晒干无果实冻绿进行同媒染,新鲜无果实冻绿染得橄榄绿,晒干无果实冻绿呈深绿灰色调。
To explore the development and dyeing technology of folk vegetation dyeing green in Guizhou,Donglu was selected as the experimental material to seek the subtle differences of dyeing under different conditions.The origin and development of traditional and Guizhou vegetation dyeing green were investigated by literature review and field research.Moreover,the dyeing materials were finished,and the color performance of vegetation dyeing green was shown by dyeing test.On this basis,the characteristics of folk vegetation dyeing green in Guizhou were analyzed.The results show that different parts of Donglu and different degrees of freshness have different dyeing performance.Fresh Donglu with fruit can dye the fabric green directly,but fresh Donglu without fruit dye yellowish.Sun-dried fruitless Donglu dye the fabric with low colour purity.When the fabrics are co-mordant dyed by using fresh and sun-dried fruitless Donglu with green vitriol as mordant,fresh fruit-free green gives the fabric an olive green,while sun-dried fruit-free green gives it a dark greenish gray hue.
作者
陈俊婵
须秋洁
郑晨华
CHEN Junchan;XU Qiujie;ZHENG Chenhua(School of Fashion Design&Engineering,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou,Zhejiang 310018,China)
出处
《毛纺科技》
CAS
北大核心
2021年第9期41-47,共7页
Wool Textile Journal
基金
教育部人文社会科学研究青年基金项目(19YJC760131)
浙江省哲学社会科学规划课题(19NDJC237YB)。
关键词
草木染绿
传统染绿
贵州
民间染绿
染色工艺
vegetation dyeing green
traditional dyeing green
Guizhou
folk dyeing green
dyeing process
