摘要
[研究意义]隐士服是中国古代社会中独特的视觉文化现象,透过这一现象可以观照古代社会的文化丰富性。[研究方法]通过美术史图像的梳理可以看到历代隐士服的形制变迁;借助相关历史文献的考证与词语辨析,最终呈现对于隐士服这一社会现象的全面认知。[研究结果与结论]隐士服是文人阶层自我的一种标榜,是来自儒家礼仪社会内部的一种解构与反叛。研究认为隐士服在不同时代有不同的样式,但最经典的样式则是汉代深衣,图像与文本共同参与塑造了这种对于隐士的认知。
Hermit clothing is a unique visual cultural phenomenon in Chinese traditional society,through which we can observe the cultural richness of ancient society.Through the images of art history,we can see the changes of the shape and system of the hermit's clothing in the past dynasties.With the help of the textual research of relevant historical documents and word discrimi⁃nation,it finally presents a comprehensive cognition of the social phenomenon of hermit clothing.Hermit clothing is a kind of self-flaunt of the literati class,and a deconstruction and rebellion from inside the Confucian etiquette society.It is held that her⁃mit suits have been styled in different times.However,the most classical style is the Shenyi of Han Dynasty.The related images and texts shapes the cognition of the hermit clothing together.
作者
吴慧霞
李楠
舒怡
WU Huixia;LI Nan;SHU Yi(School of Drama film and Television,Communication University of China,Beijing 10024 China)
出处
《服饰导刊》
2021年第2期19-22,共4页
Fashion Guide
关键词
隐士服
高士服
深衣
Hermit clothing
Gaoshi suit
Shenyi
