摘要
采用织物厚度仪、硬挺度测试仪对多种类型共18块纺织服装面料进行测试,并与CHES-FY纺织材料手感风格测试仪测试结果对比,分析织物压缩性能和弯曲性能对丰满度指标的影响。测试结果与CHES-FY风格仪的压缩和弯曲阶段所提取的指标对比,通过SPSS对所测得的指标实施相关性分析和主成分分析,获得了丰满度的回归模型。结果表明:织物的丰满度与压缩性能相关,不同种类面料的丰满度不仅需要考虑压缩性能,还要考虑硬挺度的影响。同时,CHES-FY风格仪能准确地获取织物手感值,其压缩性能可用来评价织物的丰满度,弯曲性能可评价织物的硬挺度。
A fabric thickness meter and a stiffness tester were used to test 18 various types of fabrics,and the results were compared with that of the CHES-FY textile material feel style tester to analyze the effects of fabric compression and bending performance on the fullness indicators.The test results were compared with the indicators extracted in the compression and bending stages of the CHES-FY style instrument.The correlation analysis and the principal component analysis for the indicators obtained by each test were carried out through SPSS,and the regression model of fullness was finally acquired.The results showed that the fullness of the fabric had a great correlation with the compression performance.The fullness of different types of fabrics needed to consider not only the compression performance but also the effect of stiffness.At the same time,the CHES-FY style tester could accurately obtain the fabric feel value,its compression performance could be used to evaluate the fullness of the fabric,and the bending performance could be used to evaluate the stiffness of the fabric.
作者
田源
刘贵
潘行星
杜赵群
郑冬明
刘金抗
TIAN Yuan;LIU Gui;PAN Xing-xing;DU Zhao-qun;ZHENG Dong-ming;LIU Jin-kang(College of Textiles,Donghua University,Shanghai 201620;Fujian Provincial Key Laboratory of Textiles Inspection Technology(Fujian Fiber Inspection Bureau),Fuzhou 350026;Jiangxi Provincial Center for Quality Inspection and Supervision on Down Products,Gongqing 332020;Violet Home Textile Technology Co.,Ltd.,Nantong 226311)
出处
《纺织科学与工程学报》
CAS
2021年第1期6-10,22,共6页
Journal of Textile Science & Engineering
基金
江西省质量技术监督局科技项目(GZJKY201807)
江西省市场监督管理局科技计划项目(GSJK201909)
福建省纺织品检测技术重点实验室(福建省纤维检验局)(2018-MXJ-01)。