摘要
“汉服”这一概念在现代社会中被频繁提及始于2002年,初衷是为解决“现代汉族的传统民族服饰是什么”的历史遗留问题。汉民族服饰的断裂表现在两个层面,一是明末清初的“薙发易服”政令导致汉族的民族服装中断;二是工业革命后的全球化社会,使非西方文明的民族服饰应用场景发生转型。21世纪初兴起自中国民间草根的汉服复兴运动,因为理论的不健全,使公众对于“汉服”概念产生误解:一是混淆了“汉族民族服饰”和“汉族民间服饰”两个概念;二是把汉服放到了中国古代服饰史的框架中分析,用“个性”款式淡化了汉服体系的稳定性和连续性,否认汉民族服饰的整体存在。如果要理性地看待“汉服”这一事物,必须要树立“汉服研究”思路,走出古代服饰史的研究思路,综合运用民族学、民俗学、人类学等现代学科视角,完成现代汉服服饰体系和文化体系的理论重构,实现古代汉服与现代汉服的接续发展。
Frequent mentions of the concept“Hanfu”in modern society started in 2002 which originally intended to solve a problem left over by history,that is,“what is the traditional national costume of modern Han nationality?”The fractures of national costume of Han nationality can be found in two aspects.One is that the government decree of“hair-shaving and clothes-changing”in the late Ming and early Qing Dynasties that led to the interruption of the national costume of Han nationality;The other is the global society after the industrial revolution that has transformed the scenarios of national costumes for non-Western civilization.At the beginning of the 21st century,the grassroots Hanfu Revival Movement made the public misunderstand the concept“Hanfu”due to the inadequate theory.Firstly,it confused two concepts of“national costume of Han nationality”and“folk costume of Han nationality”.Secondly,by wedging Hanfu into the framework of ancient Chinese costume history to analyze it,it disturbed the stability and continuity of Hanfu system with“personalized”style and denied the holistic existence of national costume of Han nationality.To view“Hanfu”rationally,one must set up a mentality of“Hanfu research”by breaking away from the research thinking of ancient costume history.It also must accomplish the theoretical reconstruction of clothing system of modern Hanfu and cultural system by comprehensively adopting perspectives of ethnology,folklore,anthropology and other modern disciplines to achieve a consistent development of the ancient and modern Hanfu.
作者
杨娜
YANG Na(China Media Group,Beijing 100020;Center for Studies of Sociological Theory&Method,Renmin University of China,Beijing 100872)
出处
《贵州大学学报（艺术版）》
2020年第6期78-87,共10页
Journal of Guizhou University Art Edition
关键词
汉服
汉服运动
汉服研究
古代服饰
文化基因
Hanfu
Hanfu Movement
Hanfu research
ancient costume
cultural gene
