摘要
察哈尔传统服饰是蒙古族28个部落传统服饰中的一支,具有突出的形制之简、色彩之素、头饰之繁、佩饰之多的艺术特征,在众多的蒙古族服饰中独树一帜。文章通过对察哈尔蒙古族现主要居住地锡林郭勒和乌兰察布地区的田野调查和历史文献调研,运用艺术学和民俗学的视角,概括其独特的简繁艺术特点,探讨该族群如何通过适简与从繁的服饰礼仪功能来构建民俗生活。研究表明,察哈尔蒙古族传统服饰的简与繁不仅是一种艺术特征,也是族群历史记忆的载体和身份建构的工具,其形成原因受到历史中军事职能、宫廷文化和游牧生活三者的共同塑造,并影响至今。
Chahar traditional costume is one of the traditional costumes of 28 Mongolian tribes. It has prominent artistic features such as simplicity of form,plain colors,complexity of headwear and many accessories. It is unique among many Mongolian costumes. Based on the field investigation and historical literature investigation in Xilingol and Ulanchabu areas where the ancient Chahar Mongol nationality now mainly live,this paper summarizes their unique simple and complex artistic characteristics from the perspective of art and folklore,and explores how the ethnic group constructs folk life through the function of simplicity and complicated costume etiquette. The research shows that the simplicity and complexity of the traditional costume of Chahar Mongol nationality is not only an artistic characteristic,but also a carrier of the historical memory of the ethnic group and a tool of identity construction. The reason for its formation is the common result of military functions,palace culture and nomadic life in history,and generates influence still in the present day.
作者
李洁
LI Jie(College of Ethnology and Sociology,Minzu University of China,Beijing 100081,China;College of Art,Hebei Normal University of Science&Technology,Qinhuangdao 066000,China)
出处
《丝绸》
CAS
CSCD
北大核心
2020年第5期88-95,共8页
Journal of Silk
关键词
察哈尔蒙古族
传统服饰
简繁
艺术特征
民俗
Chahar Mongol nationality
traditional costume
simplicity and complexity
artistic characteristics
folk customs
