摘要
近代中国在民族危机的逼仄下,相沿千年的传统观念不断裂变、调整以趋时,新的观念、思潮大量涌现。为打败本土化妆品,外国化妆品商从进入中国那刻起,就攻讦宫、黛、粉、脂有毒,女性不能以戕害身体的方式追求美,不经意间与本土的启蒙思想相应和,并在20世纪20年代的女性身体解放运动中由激进知识分子演化为对"束胸""蓄发""敷粉"陋习的严厉批判,"健美论"应运而生。但在女性解放运动深入开展、女性消费权利获得尊重的大背景下,"健美论"在促进女子体育的同时,未能抑制女性的美容消费,"天然美""健美美"和"人工美"成为上海摩登时代并存不悖的生活时尚。
In modern China,under the threat of national crisis,the traditional concepts of thousands of years had been continuously changing and adjusting to keep pace with the times.New concepts and ideological trends had emerged in large numbers.In order to defeat local cosmetics,from the moment they entered China,foreign cosmetic manufacturers attacked ancient Chinese cosmetics Gonghuang,Dai,facial powder and rouge as toxic,and advocated that women should not pursue beauty by harming their bodies.This advocation inadvertently corresponded with local enlightenment thoughts,and in the 1920’s women’s body liberation movement it evolved into severe criticism of the bad habits of"corseting,""wearing hair long,"and"face powdering"by the radical intellectuals.Hence"bodybuilding theory"came into being.However,even with the deepening of the women’s liberation movement and more respect of women’s consumption rights,"bodybuilding theory,"though promoting women’s sports,had failed to restrain women’s beauty consumption."Natural beauty,""bodybuilding beauty,"and"artificial beauty"had become the coexisting lifestyle of Modern Times Shanghai.
作者
宋钻友
SONG Zuanyou(Institure of History,Shanghai Academy of Social Sciences,Shanghai 200235,China)
出处
《河北师范大学学报(哲学社会科学版)》
2020年第1期36-45,共10页
Journal of Hebei Normal University(Philosophy and Social Sciences)
关键词
观念史
健美论
女性消费权利
商业文化
outlook history
body-building theory
women’s right to consume
commercial culture