摘要
针对中国蓝印花布起源的问题,染织史学界虽然有起源于宋代“药斑布”的观点,然而对于其具体如何起源的论述却十分笼统。站在中国染织史内外史的角度,运用文献研究法与田野调查法,文章认为中国蓝印花布的起源是宋代染缬技术积累和外部环境刺激两方面共同作用的结果。研究表明:在工艺上,剪纸艺术为其花版制作提供了纹样基础,三大染缬工艺则为其染色工艺奠定了技术支持,拓本印刷工序启发了其刮浆防染工序;在原料上,印染坯布在元代之后逐渐由麻布向棉布转型,其染料则在明末清初由菘蓝转变为蓼蓝;在外部因素上,宋代蜡价格、染缬禁令强力促进了蓝印花布在民间的产生与发展。
Aiming at origin of Chinese blue calico, there is a view in the history circle of dyeing and waving that it originated from “Yao Ban Bu”. However, the discussion about how it originated is rather general. From the perspective of internal and external history of Chinese dyeing and weaving, literature research and field investigation methods were used to obtain the conclusion that the origin of Chinese blue calico is a result of the combined effect of dyeing technology accumulation and external environment stimulation in the Song dynasty. The study shows that: The paper-cut art provides the pattern foundation for its paper stencil making, and the three dyeing processes provide technical support for its dyeing process. The rubbing printing technology inspires its paste scraping and dyeing resisting process. In terms of raw materials, printing and dyeing grey cloth gradually changed from linen to cotton after Yuan dynasty, and its dye changed from woad to Polygonum tinctorium in the late Ming and early Qing dynasties. With regard to external factors, the price of wax and the dyeing ban in Song dynasty strongly promoted the production and development of blue calico in the folk.
作者
王燕
赵红艳
胡荒静琳
李斌
WANG Yan;ZHAO Hongyan;HU Huangjingling;LI Bin(The Studio of Dr.LI Bin,Wuhan 430073,China;School of Fashion,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan 430073,China;The Research Center of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Hubei Province,Wuhan 430073,China)
出处
《丝绸》
CAS
CSCD
北大核心
2019年第7期86-92,共7页
Journal of Silk
基金
教育部人文社会科学研究青年基金项目(17YJCZH079)
关键词
蓝印花布
起源
夹缬
蜡缬
染织
blue calico
origin
Jiaxie
batik
dyeing and weaving
